ZMR led lowrider

thingiverse

ZMR led lowrider kit, for carpark racing you need 3 bottom plates and 3mm arms with m3 10mm standoffs/spacers, m3 locknuts and various m3 screws. There is a bumper for front or back under deck one, you need to drill holes to fit. There is a 3mm spacer for the space at the front and back under deck two, same level as the arms. There is a 3mm center spacer for under deck two, you will need to trim it to fit around the 5v bec if you are using the pcb inverted, for deck two, like I did. The 12mm part is the main spacer for under deck three. Use 10mm standoffs at the front, rear and in the outside arm bolts, the inside arm bolts use locknuts. Print it in clear and run a strip of ws1812 led's around the inside, make sure to cover the back and edges of the strip to avoid short outs. Your fc, rx, vtx and led bec should all fit in this level. The camera mount is for an Aomway mini 15x15 back, 17dia lens, total length 24mm. 30deg uptilt. It's pretty chunky but it is tough enough for smacking the concrete and the lens is protected because its set back with a 115 deg bevel. It also doubles as a battery stopper. Complete the kit with the blackout motor skids designed by Pete Dee. Now you should have a tough slippery well lit carpark racer. Print Settings Printer: Mini Fabrikator Resolution: .2mm Infill: 100% Notes: Do the cam mount with 40% infill and 1.8mm top sides bottom, tough but not too heavy. Use brim as you see fit. Support may be needed depends on your printer for screw holes in the cam mount. Do the 12mm sections in clear! And fit leds inside. You can do it, and it looks cool now you dont have led's mounted outside that can break off. Do the antenna mounts at .1mm resolution, you need the detail for the tiny holes to work. Post-Printing All the bits Using the pcb inverted Underneath Getting there Everything installed. Test before screwing the lid on.