Yet Another Reel Dehydrator Idea (YARDI)

cults3d

As I'm starting to print more PETG, I'm noticing the need to remove the spool from the printer to place in my dehydrator, especially through the winter months when the coastal air seems more damp and clammy. So i decided to have a go at building my own dispensing dryer to sit on the top of one of my lack enclosures so I can dry and print at the same time, without having to keep removing and refitting the spool. WARNING! Before you get too interested in this, you will need a larger format printer to print the single piece ring. I have successfully printed this on an Anycubic Predator, and a standard Tronxy X5S 330mm bed. My dehydrator is one of the usual suspects from Amazon, it has the name "OYPLA" written on the side but looks remarkably similar to the Westinghouse model and my other "Mr Chef" model FD770. This one is OYPLA model No:3136. The spool spindle base replaces the plastic cap in the base of the unit, sitting above the metal heat shield. The original cap on mine was held down by two self tappers into the plastic but I replaced with four M3 x 16mm Allen bolts. In addition to the 4 x M3 screws, you will need: Two x 608zz bearings 1 x 110mm M8 threaded rod. or an M8 x 110mm bolt and saw off the head. 1 x 4mm Pneumatic fitting M10x1mm thread or 1/8" NPT 1 x Temperature / Humidity sensor meter (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GPT8HPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). This project is now complete so I've removed the "Work in Progress" flag. Hope someone finds this useful and any feedback welcome. There's better detailed assembly instructions on the original "Thing" on Thingiverse. Post-Printing Modifying and Assembly There's loads of versions of this dehydrator mod going around but here's how I've modded mine so far. First thing to do is take the clear plastic trays and cut out the centres of at least three of them. I personally like to keep the bottom one intact so I can lay desiccant bags on it underneath the spool. That way the warm air passes through the desiccant and some of the moisture should be extracted before it gets to the filament. I also leave the outermost ring of the tray base attached to the outer wall of the trays as it keeps them a lot more rigid than trimming them flush. See photo below. (excuse the humidity / thermometers, I was calibrating them whilst writing this tutorial). Also, I hadn't got round to trimming the spindle bolt off in the piccy either. Assembly Instructions Check the threaded hole in the centre of the spool base to ensure the threads are clean. PETG can string quite a bit which can make it difficult to screw in the M8 threaded rod. You can clean up the threads with an M8 tap if you have one but my threads printed ok and I found I could screw in the spindle fully with the aid of a couple of locknuts on the threaded rod and a 14mm ring spanner. Screw it in until it just bottoms out and then back it out a turn. It's best f the threads are a bit snug as it will prevent any chance of it unscrewing due to the spool rotating. Remove the plastic cover in the centre of the dehydrator base but leave the metal heat shield in place. My plastic cover was secured by two small phillips headed self tappers and came off easily. Fit the spool base complete with M8 spindle to the top of the four mounting turrets in the centre of the dehydrator base and secure with four M3 x 16mm cap head screws, making sure it sits flat on the four turrets so the spindle is vertical. You should find the M3 screws will cut their own threads into the turret holes with a little bit of persuasion. Again, the engineers among us will probably tap them out with an M3 tap. You should now have something that looks like the below image. Assemble the Spool bolt The pair of 608zz bearings should be a driving fit into the spool bolt housings at each end. I tapped mine in with a small hammer and drift until fully seated. Once fitted, check the bolt slides over the M8 threaded rod and turns freely. Once checked, remove the bolt from the spindle and check fit the spool bolt nut. If it's a bit tight, I found screwing it on and off several times rubbed off any burrs on the threads and it would spin freely down the spoolbolt after around 10 minutes of exercising. Fit the intact bottom tray to the dehydrator base as this will sit beneath the spool bolt. Now slide the spoolbolt onto the threaded rod. The three of the cut down trays can now be fitted onto the bottom tray, followed by the lid. Dispensing outlet and thermometer mount Righto, this has now gone from the drawing board to the printer and is currently on it's 4th iteration due to some initial oversights. You'll need a larger format printer to do this in a single piece. If there's enough interest, I will consider a multi part version to cater for those with smaller printers. Currently on the bed of my Anycubic Predator, should also fit on the likes of Tronxy X5S etc. Max diameter of the ring is 325mm so no skirt on the Tronxy. Final Completion. Well the final ring worked out spot on. Printed in around 14.5 hours on the Predator and no drama's during the print. Printed in PETG, there's a bit more hairy stringing involved which I had to clean up post printing but otherwise minimum effort. The support material broke away cleanly (Use concentric supports for this) and it fitted really nicely to the dehydrator. The Temperature / RH meter fits in nicely and I've arranged mine to sit on top of the Kossel's IKEA Lack enclosure, and intend to connect with a piece of PTFE bowden tube from the Pneumatic push fit to the extruder. (Not yet connected). I've also uploaded a left and right hand outlet version to suit different installations.