Yet Another CR10S Stand Alone AIO

thingiverse

Can't find a stand alone that fits my needs, so I created one. I think the parts are self-explanatory. Foot_m3 are meant for use with the old foot that has a rubber disk. You'll need to extend the bed thermistor wire. Screen case is not included; I used this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513661, which works perfectly. I don't have M5x8 screws, so I used M3x8 screens with printed T-nuts found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3050607. You'll need 6 of them. Additionally, you'll require 12 M3x14 or longer to secure the foot onto aluminum extrusion and 3 more M3x8 to secure the top plate to the bottom plate. I used two 40mm cooling fans that I'm not sure are original; both 40x10 and 40x20 work fine. #Features: - Can be taken with the printer and easily disassembled from it. - It almost sits on the desk and doesn't carry too much weight, so PLA should work well. - No exposed main voltage is visible. - Material use is minimized, and new hardware is unnecessary. - No need for a 10-pin ext cable for the screen. - All original hardware can be used (additional M4 may also be needed for PSU). - It should work without T-nuts and screws if you don't move the printer. - Almost no additional wiring is required, except for extending the bed thermistor wire. - Easy to print without support material. - Easy to open and maintain (simply open the top plate). - Built-in cable management. - Reserved space for a Sonoff Basic (auto shut-off and turn on). - Not too ugly. - 2.4mm wall thickness. Don't do this mod if you're not comfortable with mains voltage. Change Log: Added a new foot that works with M3 screws. Fixed Foot_m3.stl. Modified it slightly for tolerance. I've printed them, and some screw holes needed tapping/drilling, and areas required sanding. Now the tolerance should be better, but there's no guarantee since I don't plan to print another one. I noticed one of the side plates may hit the T brace on the side (I don't have one because I don't use a Z limit switch). Moved it a little. There is a severe design flaw where the top plate would hit the Y axis limit switch. I've redesigned the top plate to secure it with clips and screws so it won't hit the print bed. I've uploaded the fix and am currently printing myself. If you've printed the old top plate, I'm sorry; you can print the new one and drill three screw holes (about 2.5mm) on the bottom plate to fit the new one. The bottom plate has also been updated to include those screw holes. I've completed the installation. Everything worked as expected.