Yarn/Wool Rewinder remix (to speed up printing)

thingiverse

I have been working on this remix about two months in order to make printing faster and easier and I went through a couple conceptual iterations and I have settled on a good solution for faster printing including much less support! I have integrated a few of my own enhancements to the original design as well. I recommend printing parts in the order I have the files listed in their default orientations at 0.28 layer height. I think you will like this remix. I hope you try it. I have printed this remix twice and it works well. The first printing was for incremental development of my modifications and the second printing was for final verification that the posted .stl files in this remix work correctly together. Every part has been reworked from the original design to make printing easier and faster and to improve tolerances (particularly around the threads to work properly at 0.28 layer height printing) as well as to fix some minor concentricity issues. I chose to print solid parts (no infill) but you have flexibility with infill if you want to print even faster. Some parts with smaller footprints benefit from being printed with a brim for better bed adhesion and some parts benefit from support touching the buildplate only (i.e. to support the threads of the lower base, or the underside of Gear1 and Gear2). Relatively little support is needed overall and none of the parts require support everywhere. If in doubt, leave the "Support"-> "Touching Buildplate" option enabled (assuming Cura) and I don't think you will go wrong. Superglue can be used to connect the upper and lower base parts and/or you could optionally use a couple m3 screws as have included a couple holes for them. The two screw holes are offset to indicate proper alignment. Gear1 has been split into two parts to be printed separately and then superglued together. This is currently the only two parts that are required to be superglued (super glue works amazing on my eSun PLA+ filament but it bonds virtually instantly (you have about one second so get the alignment right quickly). In the future I may integrate the two parts of Gear1 together and print tooth down on a disposable ring like I have done with Gear2 now that I've found that to work well. Four sheetrock screws are used to mount the base to the edge of a board. I used an M5x30mm panhead screw, a washer, and nylon nut for the optional handle (which works well and is recommended). If you print this, please share your experience with a comment and/or make! I edited/modified the original .stl files in Fusion 360 and fixed most issues with Meshmixer where I could and the .stl files all slice fine in Cura and print great. I mounted on top of a couple stacked up scrap 2x6s (mine were a little narrower than 6"). I put some rubber feet on it to keep it from slipping. The crank handle is short enough that when mounted this way, the handle does not need to extend beyond the table edge to operate which makes it convenient and portable. No electric drill is needed to operate however if you want to use an electric drill, you can, just pull off the crank arm and attach a 13mm socket to the gear shaft instead. Thank you and Enjoy! As a FYI: I noticed that the original design's gear2 design had a slightly off-centered Gear2 shaft (the one that fits a 14mm socket). It is useable as it is but the shaft offset causes a slight wobble so I remixed gear2 to align the shaft on center and also made it much easier to print by adding a removable ring support that easily pulls off the tips of the teeth in order to print in a better gear-down orientation using far less support. If you are interested in this Gear2 update to use with the original design (not this remix), see "Gear2_With_Removable_Ring_14mm_v2.stl". Furthermore, based on some feedback I added a Version of Gear2 with a better connection to the removable ring to enhance printability in some cases. This file is called 'Gear2_With_Removable_Ring_13mm_with_Extra_Ring_Support_v2.stl" which adds (24) small cylinders over the tips of the 24 gear teeth that are only about one layer tall for a better mechanical connection between gear2 and the removable ring. This particular remix however uses Gear2 with a smaller diameter drive shaft that fits a 13mm socket. I did this because the original retaining ring that secures the shaft to the base did not fit well originally and I had to scale the retaining ring down to 98% to fit the threads on the base when I printed at 0.28 layer height which required me to make the Gear2 shaft slightly smaller as well. The new 13mm shaft fits great with my base and I enhanced the retaining ring thread length to hold Gear2 more snugly in the base to reduce chatter). The proper Gear2 that fits this remix is "Gear2_With_Removable_Ring_13mm v2.stl".