Y-Splitter (2-3-4-way) direct and bowden to bowden E3D j-head

thingiverse

E3D j-head Y-Splitter (2-3-4-way) direct and bowden to bowden Watch the video of it doing the swaps here, https://youtu.be/g-apfMQabjg. I made this video to help someone, and maybe it can help others too. The code that is running in the video is below, you can tune it to make it faster but that should be safe to get people up and going. I have to add this, but I will show anyone how to add more extruders to X, Y, & Z boards if you send me a board to show everyone and share all of the settings. I don't own all these boards. If not, you may need to do some research. READ!!! Below is all the gcode needed. Don't use Cura's retract on tool change; just use the gcode, and normal purge/wipe tower. The speed can be tuned if the pull-out filament doesn't leave a nice end. This is the best speed I have found for my setup. Also, once you get everything tuned, you can reduce the retract length from 150 (watch the restart also, it slows at the end). The 4-way is better than the 3, even if you only use 3 extruders. I print in PETG (240c/85c on a glass bed) and print outside walls first for dimensional accuracy. I just set the walls to 30 and let them rip. Print with the finest setting your printer can handle (<= this will vary printer to printer, and how well things are calibrated). The layer height I use is 0.20, but slow the print speed. It's essential that it prints properly; the filament path holes need to be the right size and round. The easiest way to print them is upside down and sink Z into the build plate ~-2.5mm. I personally print them straight up without any issues, which is why I didn't put a flat head on them. The only real one that's kind of difficult to print is the 3-way, but I noted that if I'm not mistaken. If you're having issues with supports, try changing the support angle to 80-50 degrees where the supports only touch straight up to the inner bowden tube. (T0, T1, T2, T3) adjust for splitter! If only using a 2-way, remove T3 and T2. If only using the 3-way, then just remove T3. For the tool gcode, just copy to each extruder and change the T# for each. Start gcode: T3 T2 T1 T0 M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ; Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line M104 S{print_temperature} ; Uncomment to add your own temperature line M109 S{print_temperature} ; Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ; metric values G90 ; absolute positioning G28 ; Home G29 G1 Z3 F200 G92 E0 G1 E147 F2000 G92 E0 G1 E10 F100 G92 E0 End gcode: G92 E0 G1 E-150 F5000 G92 E0 G91 G1 Z+5 F300 G90 G1 X180 Y180 F1500; home X axis and push Y forward M104 S0 ; turn off extruder M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed M107 ; turn off fan M84 ; disable motors Extruder/tool start: T0 ; then prime T0 G90 G92 E0 G1 E140 F5000 G92 E0 G1 E7 F200 G92 E0 Extruder/tool end: T0 ; then retract T0 G92 E0 G1 E-150 F5000 G92 E0