XL 7-segments Digital Clock/Thermometer

thingiverse

Arduino Nano + DS3231(ZS-042) + 30xAPA104-LED-Strip based digital clock/thermometer The numbers are 195mm (7.8") high, making it easy to fit one digit in most printers, the HH:MM version is 580mm (23") wide. The clock is modularized, making it easy to create a HH:MM:SS version configurable in the code. There are three case parts: the last digit with cap (1x), a normal digit connectable to the next right (3x or 5x), and a dot-case (1 or 2x). Additionally, there are four types of diffusor-inlets: A (top/bottom), B (upleft/downright), C (upright/downleft) and D (center) and one for the dots. The last digit case contains space for the two boards (Arduino Nano and ZS-042). As strip can be used all WS2811, APA104 or Neopixel kinds. I prefer the 3-wire solutions since soldering 30(or 46) interlinks is a lot of work. The digit cases can be screwed against a large beam with M3 screws directly driven in the back to give everything better strength. Wiring Instructions: Internally, the line in the digits follow the pattern: -2-, 1 3, -0-, 6 4, -5-. Just connect the Arduino GND, +5V and DI of the beginning of the strip and go from 0 in the smallest (far right) digit up through the whole clock. Just three wires through all the digits in the number. Hint: Soldering the ~6cm bridges between all seven digits of a number adds a longer triple to the end, fiddles the wires through the holes, solder them together and finally sticks the LED-strip-parts inside the gaps in the cases. BOM: 1x Arduino Nano, 1x DS 3231 (case fit for a ZS-042 board), 1x 1m APA104/WS28** 30LED/m LED-Strip (or .5m of 60LEDs/m), (one can use 1m of 60LEDs/m to use a pair for each digit to make a brighter one), ~200g colored filament for the frame (it should be optically dense) for three digit-cases, one end-case and one dot-case, ~150g white filament for seven inlets each number (there are kind of different white filaments around, I choose one that is a little less dense, lets more light shine through but still hides the dot of the LEDs), 1x aluminium bar 55cm (L or U-shaped) to strengthen the back, 8x M3x10-M3x20 (the holes in STL are 3mm, but my prints offer me then a hole where M3 screws cutting into the plastic), ~6m >AWG26 wires, three colors would help, 1x photoresistor and suitable resistor (in the range of the mean-value of the photoresistor) for brightness measurement, normally about 10K, Either: 1x USB-A-Cable, directly soldered to the 5V and GND of the nano, 1x USB-power adapter, or: 5V ~1A power adapter and a connection plug to the nano. Print Settings Printer: Dark i3 Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Doesn't Matter Resolution: 0.4mm Infill: 40% Notes: All parts are designed to be printed with a 0.4 nozzle, so that the case parts are sliced to a double sided shell, and the inner diffusors just a single white wall. Since the diffusor front is only .5mm thick, two layers create them and there is no infill pattern visible.