Xbox One controller 13400 battery

thingiverse

The main part of the design is straight from the design by SirRawThunderMan but with a different battery box to fit 2x 13400 batteries. It is smaller and fits behind the controller better with thumb tacks as the contacts instead of screws. Whole thing cost about £1 to make as most of it is recovered/recycled materials.The reason for using a 1117-3.3 voltage regulator is that due to the way it works it drops the voltage of a fully charged cell by about 1.1-1.2 volts even if thats lower than the 3.3v it is meant to maintain. This means that the low voltage warning still works and the controller would have turned off well before the protection on the TP4056 kicks in. I've tested this on a 360 with the pack I made but the same should apply to a XBone controller.Parts list-3D printed parts6 x brass thumb tacks (4 if you reuse)2 x M3 washers1 x TP4056 battery charger with protection (eBay)1 x 1117-3.3 voltage regulator (eBay)2 x 13400 batteries recovered from vapes found on the groundSome wire from a scrap network cableSuperglueHot glueSolderStart by printing the 3D parts, then sand/file them. Test fit the TP4056 battery charger as the one I used required the gap to be widened using a miniature file. Use 4 of the thumb tacks to line up the main 3D part and the battery box as shown in the second photo. Once checked take apart, coat the joining surface in superglue, put back together using 4 tacks through the holes to line things up and hold or clamp together until the glue has dried. Once dried remove the thumb tacks. Take both of the 13400 batteries and solder them into a pack with leads long enough to go through the battery box into the main part and connect to the TP4056 (approximately 8.5cm long). Hot glue the batteries into the battery box feeding the wires into the main part, see the 3rd photo. Run a little bit of superglue down the edges of where the TP4056 will slide into the case then put a blob of hot glue under where the TP4056 will be then put it in holding it in place until the glue has dried, see the 4th photo.Superglue a washer to a thumb tack, making two, so it looks like the tack in the top left of the parts list picture, make sure the washer is centered and let the glue dry. Once dry solder a little bit of solder to the spike of each tack to make later soldering easier. Put some superglue around the holes in the main part that will be the + and - of the battery pack and stick the tacks with washers through the holes making sure they are centered. Solder a wire to the ground of the 1117-3.3 long enough to go to the - output of the TP4056. Solder a wire from the output of the 1117-3.3 long enough to go to the tack that will be the + of the battery pack. Solder a wire to the input of the 1117-3.3 long enough to go to the output + of the TP4056, see the 5th photo. Solder a wire to the - tack long enough to go to the - output of the TP4056.Solder the battery + to B+ and battery - to B- of the TP4056. Solder ground from the 1117-3.3 and the - tack to output - on the TP4056. Solder input on the 1117-3.3 to output + on the TP4056. Solder output on the 1117-3.3 to the + tack. Once everything is wired up check for voltage on the output of the battery pack, it should be about 3v from a fully charged pack. I prefer to put a dab of superglue on the wires to hold them in place but this is optional. Once finished it should look something like the last photo. Check that + and - are coming out of the correct terminals BEFORE connecting it to a controller. If all is correct test it in a controller.Enjoy.