Xbox One 13400 battery V2 and V3

thingiverse

This is from the design by SirRawThunderMan but with the main part redesigned to fit 13400 batteries internally with the rest of the circuitry underneath. It is even smaller than the first remix I did of the original and fits behind the controller better. Whole thing cost about £1 to make due to the amount of recovered/recycled materials. The V2 file is easier to do and the V3 file clears the controller grips better but is more difficult to print. Both designs will need plenty of sanding and certain bits will need a miniature file to get the support material out.The reason for using a 1117-3.3 voltage regulator is that due to the way it works it drops the voltage of a fully charged cell by about 1.1-1.2 volts even if thats lower than the 3.3v its meant to maintain. This means that the low voltage warning still works and the controller would have turned off well before the protection of the TP4056 kicks in. I've tested this on a 360 with the pack I made but the same should apply to an XBone controller.Parts list-3D printed part2 x thumb tacks2 x M3 washers1 x TP4056 battery charger with protection1 x 1117-3.3 voltage regulator2 x 13400 batteries recovered from vapesScrap wire from a network cableSuperglueHot glueSolderInsulating tapeKapton tapeStart by printing the 3D part, then sand/file it. Test fit the TP4056 battery charger as the one I used required the gap to be widened using a miniature file. Take both of the 13400 batteries and solder them into a pack checking that the ends clear where the tacks will come through. The end of the tacks WILL need cutting down so they clear where the batteries will be and the center of the design may need additional filing down depending on how much solder is used.Run a little bit of superglue down the edges of where the TP4056 will slide into the case then put it place like in the third picture and hold it in place until the glue has dried. Super glue a washer to a thumb tack, making two, so they look like the tack in the top left of the parts list picture. Make sure the washer is centered and let the glue dry. Once dry solder a wire to each of the trimmed down tacks with the + tack wire long enough to go to the output of the 1117-3.3 and the - tack wire long enough to go to the output - of the TP4056. Put some super glue around the holes in the main part that will be the + and - and slide the tacks with wires through the holes making sure they are centered. Fold the wires down the slot under the hole as getting the 13400 batteries in the gap is tight. If your struggling try using 13350 batteries for the first one you build but the battery capacity will be lower. Once everything is in the right position and dried i would recommend super gluing the wires in place and insulating over the area with tape (see the 3rd picture).Solder a wire to the ground of the 1117-3.3 long enough to go to the - output of the TP4056. Solder a wire to the input of the 1117-3.3 long enough to go to the output + of the TP4056. Solder ground from the 1117-3.3 and the - tack to output - on the TP4056. Solder input on the 1117-3.3 to output + on the TP4056. Solder output on the 1117-3.3 to the + tack (see the 4th picture). Wrap the batteries in kapton tape and solder battery + to B+ and battery - to B- on the TP4056 (see the 5th picture). Once everything is wired up test for voltage on the output which should be about 3v from a fully charged pack. Once finished it should look something like the last photo.Check that + and - are coming out of the correct terminals BEFORE connecting it to a controller. If all is correct test it in a controller. Optionally use a little hot glue to hold the batteries in place.Notes-You could use insulating tape or kapton tape for both jobs but if you have both might as well use both.Although it is optional to hot glue the batteries in place I highly recommend doing it.