X-carriage for Flex3Drive for wanhao duplicator, malyan m150 and similar i3 clones

X-carriage for Flex3Drive for wanhao duplicator, malyan m150 and similar i3 clones

thingiverse

X-Carriage (for Wanhao Duplicator I3, Malyan M150 and similar I3 clones) that can carry dual flex3drive extruder drive. source "files" (onshape) I'm using this flex3drive dual driver with 2 hexagons (one 1.75mm other 3.00mm) and am now moving that assembly to the M150 UPDATE: uploaded new stl, 1mm shorter "lip" for better seating of the extruder Interesting note, the 50% infill printed part in ABS is still noticeably lighter than original iron bracket Print Settings Printer: self made Resolution: 0.25 Infill: 50% Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Notes: thick layers for stronger part .. 0.25-0.3mm works great, crank your temp to upper max that prints good with your filament so you get good layer adhesion. note that part is "thick", probably "too strong" for what it needs to hold but I never liked the thin flimsy stuff that shakes and breaks no support needed, you need heated bed since part is rather thin and long so it will warp without heated bed. Post-Printing if your part warp slightly, you can heat the part up and straighten it by screwing it to a piece of wood .. even better if you screw it and then slowly heat it and tighten the screws so you flatten it properly the screw holes for mounting the x-carriage to the bearings expect an M4 washer and a standard hex (allen) head m4 screw. use washer with hex screws! the original flat head screws might be long enough to fit, since head is bigger than for hex screw flat head ones can go without washer. mine original screws were just long enough so I used them (they screw into the nuts in the bearings more than 2 turns - enough ). would be good to use thread lock on those crews going into bearings (mine were thread locked originally on m150) since the head "vibrates" or you will have to re-tighten them from time to time the small holes I made to fit my metal thread inserts that I "heat-fit" into the part but you can use m3/m4 nuts.. UPDATE: I planned on using metal inserts for small holes but the m2 screws threaded nicely directly into plastic and both limit switch and cable chain are very secure .. maybe in time if cable chain connection become loose I push inserts in but it looks like for now this works by threading small ones directly to plastic

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