WWII 2.36" Bazooka Rocket

thingiverse

These files enable you to create a replica of a WWII 2.36" Bazooka rocket, consisting of two parts for the head and one part for the tail assembly. The tube between the head and tail assembly is made from a piece of 1" PVC, which proved to be a better solution than printing the tube due to its need for minimal finishing if you plan to smooth out the rough surface of the printed model. The inside diameter of the PVC tube is 1", while the outside diameter measures about 1.3". This dimension closely matches that of the original Bazooka tube, which has an outside diameter of approximately 1.25". To assemble the rocket, you will need to add a little extra length to the 7.5" tube to accommodate its insertion into both the head and tail assemblies for gluing. It is recommended that you print the head and tail parts first, then measure how much needs to be inserted into those parts and add that amount to 7.5". The photo shows an assembled model (left) printed with PLA filament, which was sanded and primed with a filler primer before being painted with OD and stenciled. The rocket on the right is the original WWII practice round used for measurements. With minimal or no finishing aside from painting, this model could easily pass the 10-foot rule as a resemblance to the original. Spending some time sanding and filling will result in a prop that closely resembles very expensive original examples. I plan to use these replicas to fill shipping crates for a WWII living history display. Instructions: Print head pieces and tail assembly Glue two head pieces together using two-part epoxy Measure the distance you will insert the PVC pipe into the tail assembly and head, then add this amount to 7.5" Cut 1" PVC to the calculated length (1" PVC has an outside diameter of approximately 1.3") Test fit the PVC into the tail and head assemblies; it may be necessary to do some sanding on the ends of the PVC or inside the assembly for a smooth fit Once you determine that the parts fit well, join them permanently with two-part epoxy, leaving 7.5" of tube between the two assemblies At this point, you can sand and/or use filler to smooth out the surfaces until you achieve the desired level of smoothness; original rockets had very smooth surfaces, so you may want to finish your replica before painting. Print Settings: Printer: Flashforge Creator (MakerBot clone) Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.20 layer height Infill: 10%