
Workbench LED Lamp Mount
thingiverse
Updated: January 21st, 2020, 22:35 UTC+2 Changes -------- - Added Fusion 360 Files (*.f3d) - Referred to a remix made by [madebymonkeys](https://www.thingiverse.com/madebymonkeys) Have You Already Printed One? ----------------------------- If you encountered issues with the cold shoe, take a look at the remix made by [madebymonkeys](https://www.thingiverse.com/madebymonkeys) -> [LED Lamp Mount for Loc-Line 3/4 inch x 3 inch Ball Socket](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4079188). Thanks to this remix! Introduction ------------ Do you know this one? [Adam Savage's One Day Builds: Custom Workbench LED Lamp!](https://www.google.com/search?q=Adam+Savage%27s+One+Day+Builds%3A+Custom+Workbench+LED+Lamp!) Well, here is a table clamp and a cold shoe. (You will need some extra parts to build the actual lamp. Please watch the video and pay attention to the video description.) What else do you need? The Loc-Line cooling hose. How long? Well, that depends on your needs. Do you want to take the more adventurous route by printing your own loc-line? Look down below in the "*Printing 3/4" Loc Line Parts*" section where you will find a link for them. I don't recommend this, and you do it at your own risk! First Five Pictures Are the New Ones. STL files with *_3_4.stl are the ones you're looking for. Update ------- My clamp broke just when I finished assembling it. So, I had to strengthen my clamp design. Basically, I added more meat (instead of 10 mm, it's now 15 mm thick). I've added some new pictures. It works so far. FYI: I had to put two 5 mm aluminum rods inside the loc line elements in order to hold the LED lamp when it is placed horizontally. Keep in mind that those rods need to be bendable by hand! Printing 3/4" Loc Line Parts ----------------------------- I attached the 3/4" loc line elements to the clamp and the cold shoe. And yes, I bought 3/4" loc line from the shelf. It can support itself and needs a lot more force to bend. If you still want to print your own loc line, I used the models from [MinyMan644](https://www.thingiverse.com/MinyMan644) found here -> [Loc-Line Fittings (1/4", 1/2" and 3/4")](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3268462). I strongly recommend buying loc line instead of printing it yourself! I'm not sure if there is a way to print decent loc line elements using just PLA or PETG. You may need to use some other material. Instructions ------------ You will need to add custom infill settings for some sections. I recommend adding 25-35% infill for the threads and their base of the "head" (the thing that pushes against the table) part of the big screw. 25-35% also apply to the bottom of the loc line sitting on the clamp. Don't forget to apply this for the whole section of the clamp where the loc line segments sit. You should increase the infill for the whole loc line segment with cold shoe. The Clamp Was Printed on Its Back. Added supports for the loc line segment and the threaded hole. I've added an OBJ file for supports based on a load simulation in Fusion 360. In Slic3r PE, add a modifier based on this OBJ file. Infill 50% works for me. The Cold Shoe Was Printed with a 100% Infill Modifier. Additional Note: IMHO It Should Be a Better Solution If You Print the Clamp Laying on Its Side. So when you look at your heatbed from above, it looks like a "C". The layer lines will then provide more strength. My first clamp broke along those lines. This could happen to me again because I printed it on its back. So, I'll print it as mentioned above if it breaks. The Screw Was Printed Upside Down and the Screw Head with Its Big Part on the Heatbed. You **don't** need supports for the threads! They print very well without. Last But Not Least, the Loc Line Segment with Cold Shoe Was Printed Standing Upright. Yes, removing the supports will be tricky, but I needed it to get the advantage of the plastic strands going circular.
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