Word-Clock german

thingiverse

This is a fully printable case for a word-clock that's designed for use with LED stripes WS281x at 60 LEDs per meter. To get it working, all you need is a RaspberryPi, a 5V power supply, some wires, and the software from here: https://github.com/xSnowHeadx/word-clock. If you want to take it to the next level, you can use an additional USB sound card to turn your device into a spectrum analyzer (check out the third picture). I've updated the wordclock_case_half.stl file on February 28th, 2017. In August of 2018, I made it possible to use the cheaper ESP8266 instead of the expensive RaspberryPi. You can find the first try of the software for the ESP8266 here: https://github.com/xSnowHeadx/WordClock_ESP8266. Keep in mind that there's no audio function support yet. I've also designed a case specifically for the ESP8266, which you can find here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2842012. Print Settings: Printer: FlashForge Dreamer Rafts: No Supports: No Notes: Print two pieces of the half outer case. The bottom of the case has marks where the LED stripes should be placed. For the grid that lays directly on top of the LED stripes, use the parts "bottom_grid". They have slots for the stripes and wires. You'll need two of them. The upper grids are without slots to create better shadowing. You'll need four pieces of these. These parts aren't at double height so you can place additional diffusor foils between them if you're using a clear shade. Print the grids with black material. The size of the shades is 184x184mm. If your printer has enough build volume, you can use the single parts. Otherwise, use the halved parts. The grids are generally halved to make it easier to insert them into the case. I've uploaded all sorts of variants for the shades so you can choose the one that suits you best. They need to be printed with a resolution of 0.2mm and usually with the plate facing downwards. The first two layers (the plate) should be printed with a transparent or translucent material, and after the second layer, switch to black. The "normal" types are for when you want the letters to be visible even if they're not lighted up. The "mirror" types hide the letters and show only the lighted ones. If you use a translucent white plate and set the RGB values to 0%, 78%, and 100%, you can create an "Apple-effect" like in the photos. If you want to use your own print strategy, I've uploaded the shade for the letters and the plate for the shade separately. If you don't have access to a 3D printer, you can print the wordclock_shade_laserprinter.bmp with a laser printer on an overhead foil. Then, stack two or three of the laserprinted foils between the grid layers for better shadowing. This looks like the last photo above and it's recommended. The wiring of the LED starts at the lower left corner and continues as a meander from the lower to the upper stripe (see "word-processor.c" in the source files). It's recommended to draw an additional power connection directly from the lower to the uppermost stripe for even brightness across the area. Custom Section: Sorry guys, I've found out that hundreds of models from thingiverse are being sold on ebay without respecting the CC license they were shared with here. https://www.ebay.com/str/3D-Pyro-Prints The Vero-Team from ebay doesn't accept thingiverse or makerbot as a legitimate corporation and neither does it recognize the CC-license as a valid one. Thingiverse itself is also declining to give members support to enforce the rules of the CC, recommending instead that we continue talking to these parasitic sellers. In fact, the CC isn't worth the click to select the right type for shared models. So I'm forced to remove all my models here. I'm not willing to waste my spare time for the profit of these antisocial parasites. If you're interested in getting the model files, please contact me. If you're an active member here and have shared your own models, I'd be very glad to send them to you.