Wobble Decouplers (beta) for Wanhao Duplicator i3, Monoprice Maker Select i3, Powerspec, Cocoon Create, Other Clones

thingiverse

Looking for feedback on how far to shorten the length as it doesn't require the entire distance to function. If anyone has a preference let me know, or multiple people so there's some discussion. Sorry for the typo, it's flange, not flanger. Moving on. Preparations: Phillips screwdriver (try different ones out to see which one won't strip your screw. Don't force. The stock [flanges] T8 nut screws are pretty fine and they need a little bit of careful torque to get out. Again, be careful- you will easily strip it if you're not careful.) New [flanges] T8 nuts provided in the link at the bottom. Calipers (any). To level the z motors. Hex key set. Perhaps a second hand or someone that knows what they're doing. Update Nov. 16 2017 This model I bought was refurbished poorly and the after pictures don't really reflect this item's potential. I've been getting even better prints than before but pictures wouldn't be accurate to its original configuration. This machine was listed as a refurb but it was more As-is than anything. I've never spent that much money getting something which is refurbished, to function in the first place. There are people that swear by refurb quality but I got the worst of the bunch so to speak. Update Oct. 17 2017 I added pictures of before and after, although my printer's extruder is really inconsistent and I'm working on that detail while planning to switch to bowden. But in the pictures is a and b. WARNING: Do this at your own discretion. If you damage your printer it is your own fault. I installed this just fine. Make sure to use a similar screwdriver to the picture. Update Oct. 11th 2017 I've added pictures on more or less what it looks like being installed. You need to take the original [flanges] T8 nuts off and leave them off. Use the Amazon T8 nuts provided in the link. The stock T8 nuts are different and I can't guarantee it working at all. It is just a bit bigger but it may work. I figure it's probably easier in the installation as you don't have to transplant anything. Here's a compatible nut: Amazon [flanges] t8 mounting nuts http://amzn.to/2wXMG8L The one I tested and verified working got poor reviews for some reason. I don't know why considering mine work fine and give great prints. Due to that, here's another link for flanges from hictop, whom are suppliers of the Cr-10. http://amzn.to/2CnqEdw This is a work in progress. It is not meant to be used as a crutch for reliability as this is the beta test. While it seems I measured everything correctly, we're relying on human accuracy, 79 cent calipers, and mechanical reference. To install: Screw T8 nut to wobble decouplers opposite way to each one. Remove top and slowly screw rods on x axis until it is removed from the top. Remove stock T8 nut Insert prepared decouplers on either side from top with T8 nut base hanging down. Reinstall x axis by carefully sliding down. It shouldn't be connected to the threaded rod, just giving it clearance. Reinstall top. Level either threaded rod with calipers. Test. Please leave comments with your experiences. The ascii was the first draft blue print, those may not reflect the actual dimensions. Update: fixed screw hole size just after uploading. Now threads grip plastic better.