WMF Mixer KULT Pro Power 1400W

thingiverse

Had to repair my mixer. Unfortunately a dumb pin was broken. BAD DESIGN!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97tgce-4sC8 A.m. link shows you crucial repair steps: -1 how to open the case: three special screws which you need to open with a slotted screwdriver. -2 how to unscrew (untighten) the main gear sprocket. Mind: THIS IS A LEFT HANDED THREADED! You need to unlock by a moderate beat by hammer, between sprocket (driving dog). Bear in mind to beat on the LEFT side!!!!! Please! Once you have this, you take out the middle switch (held by TWO latch noses, Rastnasen) c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y !! Note or photograph connectors which you unplug. Next is to take out the rotary switch. This switch is retained by THREE latch noses (Rastnasen) try to pull the switch with some leverage, carefully! Simoultaneously try to push back the latch noses. Wiggle back and forth slowly until you feel the rotary switch knob come off. Once it is off and all 2+3 latch noses are unhurt, you have a 95% chance to get this fixed! Print the parts. a) Bottom part will later be glued to Top part. The two inserts (print in Red or your choice) will be glued into appropraite cavities in the Top part. Bottom part shall have inner diameters clean without any burrs! b) Check that all are printed properly. Open the three holes for two Ø3mm dowel pins, and a 3mm long screw. The screw preferably shall be threaded into the Top part, but also penetrate the Bottom part. All fis should be quite tight, I would glue the dowel pins into the Top part and then check that they come flush with the Bottom part. The M3 screw can be glued in also, not necessary if you can thread it in and if it stays tigh. After assembly Top to Bottom part the M3-Screw should stand out approx. 8mm! I would mill or sand off the threads and make the tip smoothly round = out tip. The tip is our hero, that is the guy that was broken earlier and caused this operation. Inner switch which you disassembles first has to penetrate smoothly without jam the assembled Top and Bottom part. The dowel pint help you for locating both. For make 100% sure you can put the Bottom part over the three notches to see how everything fits. Flat surface shows towards you, not to machine. The notches touch this surface. You can to this test, but bear in mind there is ANOTHER RISK of damaging the notches. The printed TestBottom part is for checking the assembly. You can use the as surrogate for the Bottom part, to see if the part is able to rotate. The three cut-outs are just for easier assembly and disassembly for the test purpose, with that you save the notches and do not break them prior to the complete assembly. Once you figure out that the Bottom Test part fits, compare with the org. Bottom part. If they are "identical", start to assemble Bottom and Top part, glue them together and the Red indexers. Now make sure that the inner switch fits smoothly through the two main parts. Let everything dry or cure thoroughly one or two nights. When you assembly everything I don't know if this is a good idea, but I have put a "hair" of sanitary grease on the surface touching areas. Now you are ready to go! Re-assemle everything and you should be good to go! Good luck!! Note: The two parts desing has another reason: you can disassembe the rotary know in any case by separating the two parts (e.h. chisel) and have better access to the vulnerable three notches. a) Bottom part comes in place where the rotary switch (knob) was.