Window screen - pin joint

thingiverse

Fits a 5/16"(8mm) x 3/4"(19mm) window screen frame(not sure what the standard sizes are for metric frames but those hopefully get you close enough to figure it out). Quick edit. You can clear the holes if the are not perfectly round on your printer with a #31 drill and a #19 drill. U[dated to a V2 version to allow for better screen clearance. This matches up to the corner braces I uploaded here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6212007 In this case this piece is to cut out and replace the pin section as that is a weak spot and can be bent as you see in my attached photos. You could of course properly replace the steel channel if you can find the right size. I plan on building solar screens later anyway, so not worth my time to track it down and make a new piece. This will get me through for now. You simply cut out a 10mm section of the damaged channel, slip this into place, and you are done. Much stronger than the original joint as it is solid plastic, and not a hollow frame. Note: there appear to be 4 sizes of window frames that are standard. Look at the attached photo to see how those are measured. Including the decimal equivalents for ease, but these are designed to be measured in fractions of inches, so will not be exact and can vary based on metal thickness used. 1. 1/4" X 3/4" or .250" X.750" 2. 5/16" X 3/4" or .3125" X .750" or 8mm * 19mm<-- the size this particular upload covers 3. 3/8" X 3/4" or .375" X .750" 4. 7/16" X 3/4" or .4375" X .750" You can search for "MP14074 window screen frame" and see the style is is designed for but have included photos for easy reference. this specifically matches my version with a lip. Mine specifically is for a .125' spline. Optimized for printing, so should be very easy to print. I removed the .75mm step from the bottom of the 10mm center section as it was serving no useful purpose(not really needed to retain frame) and not worth the support time since it is hidden at installation. So no supports. Prints flat, and can easily nest 30+ at a time on an Anycubic with a bed of 235*215 if you happen to have that many damage frames. Has a rounded bottom corner all the way around the inserted part as you can see from the green profile render shot. Also has a double taper on the leading edge making it very easy to insert. 6.75mm high by 12.5mm wide opening in the channel (2mm thick by 15mm widest point of L shape). 19mm square corner 58mm long overall. More dimensions in the photos. also has the small corner post to retain the beading and hold the edge in place, but this is a snug fit and will easily lock into place. Let me know if you need one modified for a different channel size. These are NOT for mitered corner joints. The corner block is exposed - very easy to cut square ends on your window frame and install these. If you need one for mitered corners that the entire plastic corner fits in inside the frame and is hidden, that will require modifications and a new file. Printed mine in white (match your filament to your window screen frame color) black typically has enough carbon to have more uv resistance even if it does not specifically have a UV inhibitor. If you are going to paint anyway, up to you. Designed to hold these pins: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZCYQ3Z3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Opening is 4.25mm on one side to accommodate the pin and the 4.mmspring, and 3.5mm on the other side for the small 3.05mm end of the pin that hooks behind the frame and holds it in place.