White Wizard - Eachine Wizard Pod

thingiverse

I've never owned an Eachine Wizard, but I really like the design of its frame - it's essentially a QAV-R clone. One thing that keeps me from fully embracing the design is that those longer bodies can be quite heavy by today's standards. On Banggood, I discovered that they sell smaller sandwich/body plates and the arms of the x220s separately. When combined with 4x 25mm standoffs, some m3 bolts, and my canopy design, it creates a nice racing frame. To make this build complete, shop for these parts: 1x [Base plate](https://droneracingparts.nl/wwizardplate) 1x [Stretched-X arms](https://droneracingparts.nl/wwizardarms) 1x [25mm standoffs](https://droneracingparts.nl/25mmstandoffs) (4x in build) 1x [M3 bolts](https://droneracingparts.nl/m3bolts) (12x 10mm, 4x 5mm) 1x [M3 nuts](https://droneracingparts.nl/m3nuts) (4x in build) 1x [Anti Vibration standoffs](https://droneracingparts.nl/antvib) 1x [Runcam Micro Swift 2](https://droneracingparts.nl/microswift2) 1x [Eachine VTX03](https://droneracingparts.nl/vtx03) 1x [Frsky XM+](https://droneracingparts.nl/xmplusint) 1x [BFF3 clone](https://droneracingparts.nl/bff3clone) 1x [Tattoo 35a + BR2306s combo](https://droneracingparts.nl/rs2306statto35a) Some things to keep in mind: - If you want a stronger quadcopter, consider buying the original x220 arms. - Using one base plate can reduce weight but make the construction weaker. - Use 22-27cm long Lipo straps. - Longer standoffs are required for stacking multiple PCBs. - The pod fits micro-sized cams at 30 degrees minimum.