Weed2all HYPERCUBE EVOLUTION REWORK

thingiverse

Hi! This is my version of hypercube with ideas taken from the original Hypercube by Tech2c and Hypercube Evolution made by Scott. Work in progress! I have some material from another project that I didn't want to buy, so I designed it to fit my needs. The build volume is 300x300x300. Like Scott, I used 30x30 aluminium profiles from Minitec, which are cheaper than buying on eBay. On the Y-axis, I used 10mm chromed rods with 2 LM10UU each. On the Z-axis, I used a 12mm chromed rod with 2 LM12UU on each. On the X-axis, I used an 8mm rod with 2 LM8UU for each. The only thing I don't like about both designs is the XY stepper motor position, so I made some changes to use the motor at the bottom of the printer and gain extra room for the XY axis because my aluminium profile was cut shorter. Here's what you need: * 6m GT2 with 2mm pitch belts * 1x 1040mm closed-loop belt (520mm perimeter) used for dual Z * 2 x 200mm closed-loop belts (100mm perimeter) * 4 x 20-tooth idler pulley with 5mm inside * 2 x 20-toothless idler pulley with 5mm inside (for Z-axis idler) * 2 x 20-tooth idler pulley with 3mm inside * 2 x 20-toothless idler pulley with 3mm inside * 6 x 20-tooth pulley with 8mm inside diameter * 2 x 20-tooth pulley with 8mm inside diameter * 2 x 16-toothless idler pulley (used in conjunction with Y_10mm_front left and right parts to make belts run at 90°) * Bearings: + 4 x 608ZZ bearings (22x8x7) + 12 x 688Z bearings (16x8x5) * M3 and M5 screws of different sizes * M3 and M5 nuts Update: I added 1.stl and 2.stl files, which are the correct way to print items for good results and strength. I also added some photos to show how it mounts the X carriage (don't count the Y splitter for E3D, as that's something I'm working on). At the back of E3D mount.stl, you'll attach the Carriage Cable Cover.stl with 2 x M3 20mm screws and all cables from hotend will pass through it and enter into a flexible 16mm diameter conduit (easy to find in hardware stores or stores that deal with electricity) that will go up to the DB15 connector at the back of the printer. In this configuration, I shaved down about 150g from the X carriage, which is a lot! For Y-axis, you need to use the Y axis optic endstop trigger.stl and mount it on the LM10LUU bearing on the left side. The part is made to have a 25mm M3 screw and nut to tighten to the bearing and a small 2mm hole where it needs to enter an M2.5 screw without head... here you can offset it how you wish... the M2.5 screw needs to be 6mm sticking out when you mount the plastic part at the tip of LM10LUU bearing in order to trigger the endstop...(insert the screw all the way into the plastic part then you cut his head off... you can put a long screw and play with the offset of the part that will go onto the LM10LUU bearing). 11/03/2019 Small update over E3D mount part... was reported that cannot fit BlTouch and E3D, now all fits perfectly. Added 4 offsets parts for BlTouch: 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm (one of these parts fits underneath the BlTouch and the E3D mount in order to get your BlTouch sensor at desired height in relation to the nozzle). If you like my work and want to keep me making more great stuff, you can buy me a coffee: <a href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/41ORivw" target="_blank"><img src="https://cdn.buymeacoffee.com/buttons/default-red.png" alt="Buy Me A Coffee" style="height: 51px !important;width: 217px !important;" ></a>