Watercooling reservoir

prusaprinters

<p>Needed to upgrade watercooling setup for couple of my PCs and thought that why not design my own reservoir? So this is the first design and I printed couple of these using PETG and Filaflex for gaskets.</p> <p>Designed for immersive pump, Im using Eheim Compact 600. Has 2 16mm holes for passthrough tube adapters and 1 12mm for pump wire passthrough (see pics).</p> <p>Models include gaskets which I printed using Filaflex.</p> <p>After fixing the leaks and observing two reservoirs running on my bathroom for a couple of weeks, I installed the to 2 PC's. Still running fine after a couple of months. Just need to add water twice a month or so, seems evaporation is happening. Probably the top lid isn't that tight...</p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong></p> <p>Prusa</p> <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong> <div><p>Prusa Mk2</p></div> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>No</p> <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong> <div><p>No</p></div> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong></p> <p>0.2-0.3mm</p> <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong> <div><p>20%-100%</p></div> <p><strong>Notes:</strong></p> <p>Problems: as 3D printed parts aren't that solid, I had some small leaks here and there, mostly on the seams. With leaks I mean a very slow trickling, kind like sweating. So here are a couple of tips for getting watertight parts:</p> <ul> <li>randomize seam position. I had seam on one corner -&gt; leak</li> <li>use multiple perimeters, at least 3</li> <li>over-extrude a bit so less small gaps between perimeters. I bumped mine to 105% in Slic3r</li> <li>set perimeter/infill overlap to higher number, like 30% or more</li> <li>use larger nozzle. Bigger paths, less gaps. Second reservoir I printed with 0.8mm nozzle and it leaked only at the seam</li> <li>vase-mode with large nozzle. Won't work with this model (at least haven't tried)</li> </ul> <h3>Post-Printing</h3> <p><strong>Post-processing for fixing leaks</strong></p> <ul> <li>use soldering iron to melt the problematic parts. Careful not to mess the parts too bad. In my experience melting only to top most layers is enough.</li> <li>glue. I tried hot glue, but not sure if it's a good long term solution. Some kind of silicone might work better.</li> </ul> <h3>How I Designed This</h3> <p>OpenSCAD. Source here: <a href="https://github.com/spegelius/3DModels/tree/master/Watercooling">https://github.com/spegelius/3DModels/tree/master/Watercooling</a></p> </p></p></p> Category: Computer