'Water / Shower Powered "Turbine" Mods - Exhaust redirection, Connectors, Printing Improvements

'Water / Shower Powered "Turbine" Mods - Exhaust redirection, Connectors, Printing Improvements

thingiverse

There have been numerous requests to redirect exhaust to a specific "spot." Due to the turbine's design and the shell's shape (lack of additional space), this is a highly challenging request that would necessitate a complete redesign. Unfortunately, I do not possess the source files, making this option impossible for me. I am unwilling to invest an excessive amount of time into it. What I have accomplished instead is externally rerouted the exhaust via a small tube that can be printed in three sections (to make it easier), then glued together. Depending on your slicer or printer, the rear face of the tube may exhibit gaps in the wall, or possibly be missing its back wall entirely. This is acceptable. In fact, it might even function better without the back wall due to the additional space it creates for water flow. Consequently, you will need to seal off this gap against the main body using either CA glue (permanent) or hot glue (temporary). I have also designed and added several connectors that can be used with PC cooling hose, in case you do not possess a handheld device and are unwilling to spend $40 on one merely to attempt this setup. My shower features a 3/4-inch pipe, so I have designed it around this size. Since the toy appears to be 1/2 inch in diameter, I could not locate a suitable reducer or hose that had a 3/4-inch connection on one end and a 1/2-inch connection on the other. If you possess a newer 1/2-inch shower, you should be able to utilize the connector from the toy side on both ends; however, you will lack the 45-degree elbow. Consequently, there are connectors for showers, toys, and bridges. Suppose you have two sections of hose from previous builds available. Well, print a bridge connector and attach them to create one lengthy hose. The connectors come in three versions each: an 8mm, a 9mm, and a 10mm nipple diameter. All are designed for 1/2-inch tubing, although the 8mm could potentially work with slightly smaller tubing when utilizing tight zip ties. The 8mm is intended for the old-school stiff tubing (the outdated plasticized material), employing zip ties. The 9mm is designed for traditional 1/2-inch soft tubing, also using zip ties. The 10mm is intended for traditional soft 1/2-inch tubing but lacks zip ties; instead, you can use a lighter to heat the tubing, allowing it to slip over the nipple. Be cautious, as I offer no guarantee that it will withstand the pressure from your home's plumbing system or endure plugging exhaust holes. There has also been an improvement made to the toy itself, specifically at the inlet. When printing, you do not want support inside; instead, use "touching build plate" settings on the support to create structures on the outside that help anchor it and prevent it from rocking. However, in the original toy, there is a roof within the inlet that generates support inside the little hole, which can be quite troublesome to remove. This has been rectified. Simply set "touching build plate" on the support and decrease the angle until only the roof of the exhaust holes receive support. This should generate six towers around the print. If you require additional support around the base for quality issues or to obtain more support earlier, increase the angle. This will eventually create a doughnut-shaped structure around the lower shell. Be cautious when removing it, as improper settings can lead to interface and gap issues. Enjoy!

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