water cooling for E3D V6 / Volcano

thingiverse

inpired by: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3697905 Hotend water cooling. ----------------------------- Minimalist subtle solution enables assembly without the need to change the print head. The heatsink was glued using a two-component glue. The entire print was also coated with glue from all sides. I recommend doing a pressure test below the water level with a compressor or bicycle hand pump. My Ender 5 plus 200mm/s https://youtu.be/icf3OeONVf4 Why water cooling? -------------------------- It will enable slow printing with high temperature. It will allow to reach a higher temperature of the hotend. It solves the problem of E3D when the filament softens before it enters the heatbreak. Other parts of this solution ----------------------------------- tube joiner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5436965 water reservoir jar lid: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5436977 Weight in no problem ------------------------ Weight gain is minimal. I use a direct extruder. For several years I used a direct motor like NEMA from the bowden extruder that was on the Ender 5/Ender 5 Plus. It was just moved from the side of the printer directly to the printhead carriage, as is usual. The Creality motor weighs 286 grams. LDO motor orbiter V1.5 extruder weighs 158 grams. Photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/sGsj8nNB3LKkQUBC6 So we are sure to have a sufficient reserve for the weight of water. Let's not forget that with water cooling we can remove the heatskink fan and the fan bracket. Resonance - I use the Klipper3D.org firmware - it can compensate for resonance with the input shaping method. URL: https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html No changes needs -------------------- There are ready-made water-cooled heatsink hotend solutions. I think they are unnecessarily expensive. My solution will only allow the fan to be removed and the entire E3D heatsink to be mounted in the printer carriage without the need for any mounting changes. Low cost ---------- An extremely cheap solution. Aquarium pump, mason jar as water reservoir. As a heat exchanger, I use a heater from a car found at a junkyard. The printed part was painted on both sides with expoxide two-component glue. The print is then 100% waterproof and can handle the pressure test. Water leak. ---------- Safety first! The electronics of the printer are placed in such a way that water cannot flow into it. All power supply lines are completely out of danger of being hit by leaked water. 1/ Water leakage when the printer is not turned on. The tank and heat exchanger are located lower than the water cooling of the hotend. Therefore, if water leaks occur when the printer is standing, only the volume of water in the cooler and in the supply hose can leak out. The rest will be solved by gravity and all other water flows down towards the reservoir and heat exchanger. 2/ Water leakage during printing An aquarium submersible pump pushes water from the tank into the water-cooled hotend. The water continues to the heat exchanger and back to the reservoir. A flow meter is placed in that place. If the flow drops by 5%, the pump stops and the printer goes into PAUSE PRINT state and waits. And we advance to state 1/, i.e. water leakage when the printer is stationary.