Wanhao i3 Plus X-axis/Z-axis rebuild

thingiverse

This is a reworking of the Wanhao i3 Plus (Cocoon Create Touch) Z axis and X axis. This design came about because I had to check the X-axis idler pulley, which is extremely hard to access on an I3 plus!!! Why should you install this? 1) This design makes maintenance on the X-axis much easier. Just unscrew 3 bolts on each side, and you can remove the entire X-axis gantry. 2) This design should improve print quality. The original design relies on grub screws to hold the X-axis rods in place. If these come loose (and they regularly do), then the X-gantry can bind. This design removes that problem. 3) This design is a more straightforward upgrade path for future improvements, and it looks like it will be more robust than the current design. 4) It will also give you access to the motor pulley which should make it easier to adjust the belt tension. 5) You will need some additional parts, but these are relatively cheap and easy to source. Here's what you'll need: * 2 x M3 nuts * 6 x M3 thin square nuts * 1 x M3 x 30mm bolt * 4 x M3 x 10mm bolts * Some cable chain screws (if you're using a V2 printer) * A long allen key Here's how to assemble it: 1) Start by unscrewing the old idler pulley. You will need a socket wrench for this. 2) Remove the motor from the old part and thread the belt end through the x-axis piece and around the idler pulley. 3) Slot the rods into the X-axis parts. 4) Put a belt loop through the motor side X-axis mount. Put the motor through the loop and screw the motor onto the new X-axis piece using 15mm M3 bolts (3x). 5) Check the idler belt and motor pulley align with the belt hole in the X-axis piece. There should be enough clearance, but I chose to adjust my motor pulley in by about 1mm. 6) Undo the other end of the belt from the extruder. Thread the belt end through the x-axis piece and around the idler pulley. Then re-secure it moderately tightly to the extruder. 7) Now you should have a complete X-axis gantry. 8) Attach the X-axis gantry to the Z-axis mounts using 15mm M3 bolts (3 per side). 9) Check that the gantry goes top to bottom without binding by winding the Z-axis lead-screws. 10) Put the rod holders back on the top of the Z-axis rods. 11) Put the top of the printer back on. 12) Power it up. Check it all works. Relevel your bed (The new design should set off the limit switch at about the same point, but it's unlikely to be within 0.1mm of the old design. More like ±0.5mm.). 13) To adjust belt tension, use a long allen key and just tighten the idler adjustment bolts. I do it a quarter turn at a time alternating between bolts so that it doesn't get skewed. Update: 21/10/18: Updated Z-axis left part to include a flat area for the x-axis limit switch to hit. Update: 16/11/18: Added a plate to hold the cable chains on V2 printers. This should hopefully allow you to reuse the existing cable chain screws, but you'll need 4 m3 nuts, and 3 25mm m3 screws. Update: 21/10/19: Added an X-carriage and fan duct that is designed to work with the X-axis ends. This removes the need for different bearing carriages. It should lighten the extruder a bit, and give perfect alignment (print in the same material as X-axis rod holders). It needs: * 4 x m3 x 10mm bolts * 6 or so m3 thin square nuts. * An m3 x 30mm bolt * Probably some other bits and pieces I forgot.