Wanhao i3 Cocoon create 3D printer - Gantry Brackets

thingiverse

I was struggling to move the printer and control box around, so I built a simple base out of 16mm MDF. The control box is secured with a sturdy 75mm x 200mm Velcro pad that provides an incredibly strong hold even with this size velcro. I used Velcro so the box can be easily removed for maintenance. There's a concern about Gantry stiffness on this model printer, and I wasn't eager to install Z-Braces. Once the printer is placed on a rigid base, the next step was to design a robust method of attaching the machine to the base using the existing holes in the side of the gantry. Before fixing the machine to the base, ensure that the Gantry is square and true with the machine base by using a good set square and a completely flat surface - like a kitchen marble bench. The bracket holes are slightly smaller than the screws and bolts to be used, so gently drill them out by hand. I used #10 countersunk screws for the base (5/16 or 7.94mm) and 5/32 or 3.96mm bolts and lock nuts on the vertical Gantry sides. Don't lift the entire unit of the printer, control box, and wooden base by the gantry, as you'll damage the printer. Instead, pick it up by the wooden base or attach screw handles to the wooden base. Printer Settings: Printer: wanhao i3 Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: 0.20 Infill: Solid Fill Notes: Left and Right sides Print the base layer on the build plate for structural strength - you'll need maximum crush resistance there when screwing into the wood base. Be careful tightening the bolts into the gantry so as not to split the layers, but with solid fill it will be extremely strong anyway. If you increase inner and outer wall thickness, you'll add significant strength to the holes. Increasing outer and inner wall thickness provides stiffness and strength, while using solid fill for crush resistance when screwing is highly recommended - PLA is an ideal choice due to its minimal flex.