Wanhao Duplicator 9 D9 300 X Axis Bracket

thingiverse

The existing setup using sprung preloaders to hold the different axes of the Wanhao Duplicator 9 in place is not one I like at all. Tightening up the screws alters the angle that the wheel comes into contact with the rail, and spring preload is inherently dodgy - it can move in ways it should not. This design fixes up the X axis, effectively making it solid rather than sprung preload. To make this design work, I am using a spare M3 hole on the X gantry plate, between the two wheel axes. You might want to check you also have an M3 there and that it is not doing anything else. I have modded my fan housing, and although I don't think this screw hole was in use before, I'm not 100% sure. This design is for the MK1, if someone has a MK2 and wants me to see if I can modify the design, then let me know in the comments and give me the distance between the two wheel axes (which replace the one wheel design used here). You will need: - 1x M5x25mm screw to replace the old M5x20mm - 3x M3x20mm (two of these can possibly be x15mm) Also, an M3 tap could help. You might be able to force the M3 screws through the two threaded holes without tidying them up at all with the tap, not sure. If you can get the screw in without tapping, do so. If not and you do use a tap, use as little as possible. The rough thread, as it is printed, will help lock the screws in place. Also, you might want to clean up the M3 slot so that the screw, when inserted, can move relatively freely in it. Print this part on its side. So take two of the M3x20, screw into the threaded holes until they are at the end of the plastic but not poking out. Also before doing anything else you might want to note the force required to move the entire carriage. Next, loosen the spring tightener screws, take the old lower wheel off the carriage, and throw away the spring washer. Use the new M5 to secure the wheel in place, with the bracket as in picture. Then take your remaining M3 and put it through the slotted hole, and screw into the spare hole on the sliding gantry/carriage until the printed plastic is pulled flat against the metal - but don't do it up tight yet. If you have some sort of locking washer (nord lock are the best) then add to this screw first, it can come loose during normal use. Now tighten up the two preload screws underneath, and maybe check to make sure the carriage is not becoming stiff. You'll notice there is much less give in it - once the screws are tight, they are tight, because the axis can no longer go off at a dodgy angle. Next screw down the two M3 at the top, going through the printed plastic. They'll be pushing onto the top of the gantry plate, adding preload from above. Again check the carriage is not becoming stiff. Finally, do up the single M3 screw to clamp everything in place. Congratulations! Your X carriage is now rock solid on the rail. Shame the same cannot be said about the rail itself, which can flex. To fix this, you can mix up something like epoxy granite (look it up) and pour into the two unused sides of the rail. I have other designs to fix the Y axis and various other flaws in the D9, see below: - Fan housing / part cooling that actually works: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906069 - Openbuild style gantry plates addon for y axis - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906204 - Z Braces - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906124