Wanhao D5S Upgrade: DuetWifi, E3Dv6, Bondtech

thingiverse

I have carried out a significant upgrade to my Wanhao Duplicator 5S Mini. The upgrade has replaced nearly all of the original electronics to greatly improve this printer's performance compared to its previous state. The included document outlines the process, stopping just before powering on for the first time. From where I stopped in the instructions, it is simply a matter of starting and testing everything. If all movements and heaters function properly, we can proceed with calibration tests, etc. Warning: This upgrade requires you to make permanent changes to your printer. Once you reach the point of no return, you cannot undo these changes to revert back to how your printer was originally configured. This is not recommended for everyone - it involves working with mains power and electricity; having a good understanding of electronics and safety precautions is crucial. It can also be costly, time-consuming (my upgrade took more than a month after the initial two weeks I had allocated passed), and poses a high risk of permanently damaging your printer. Proceed with this upgrade at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage or injury caused by following this guide. Also, please check the regulations in your country/state regarding mains wiring, earthing, etc. By using this upgrade guide, you can modify the Wanhao D5S 3D printer to use 1.75mm filament (as stock, it uses the standard 3mm). Additionally, since we utilize the E3Dv6 hot-end, nozzle changes are easier and nozzles are widely available (hardened, coated, and even ruby/sapphire inserts). Furthermore, my E3D bracket allows for quick hot-end swaps (I have an array of hot-ends in both 3mm and 1.75mm styles with varying orifices - it takes about 10-20 minutes to swap the head and extruder, though this cannot be done while the printer is on). I recommend thoroughly reading through the guide before starting to ensure you have everything and understand it all. I am using an IR probe that tells me how much to adjust each leveling screw, but this is not required. If you are skilled with the paper method, no changes need to be made. I changed the operating method of my end-stops (was Normally Open, I made it Normally Closed). This change is not necessary. All of the parts I attach are my own designs created from scratch in Solidworks. For some of them, I have taken inspiration from other designs, but these are my original creations. Where I recommend using someone else's design, I will provide a link or description to it. The STL files uploaded here can be used and even reverse engineered free of charge and as you see fit; please share yours as well (as per the Share Alike attribute of the license). If someone needs the original Solidworks files, I can provide them on request for a donation. The D5S Cross Mount is designed to fit a DiiiCooler around the E3Dv6 - other coolers may also fit, but it is specifically designed for the DiiiCooler. Included in the Thing is the Configuration I used for my printer. Mine have evolved further, as would yours, but this is a good starting point. You can upload the config.json into the RepRapFirmware Configurator, and it will provide you with most of the settings already in place - simply go through it, change to fit your hardware, and download it. I recommend running the Duet boards on their latest version, as it is easy to remain up-to-date with the latest version. While I will attempt to support people in debugging their printers, I cannot guarantee how fast I can respond. As always, it is a good idea to post questions in the relevant forum (anything mainboard/firmware settings related, go to the Duet Forum, etc). Some printed parts will require tapping of threads.