Vortex Cooler Mk IV

thingiverse

This is my latest creation - a brand-new part cooling nozzle for my trusty Monoprice Maker Select v2. It's the culmination of months of prototyping with the Mk I, II, and III designs, each of which had its own set of issues. But those prototypes taught me valuable lessons that have led to the birth of the Mk IV. The Mk IV is based on a clever concept - the inversion of an airplane wing to create a low-pressure zone inside the nozzle. This design draws in cooler air from above and combines it with the airflow coming out of the parts fan, resulting in more efficient cooling without the need for high RPMs or oversized fans. By creating a small venturi effect within the ring, I've managed to increase air pressure before directing it outward at an extreme angle. As the air accelerates, its pressure drops, creating a void that draws in even more air from above. This new airflow is then directed towards a point just 2mm below the cooler's surface, right where the hot filament meets the existing plastic part. The calculation? None needed - I simply observed the phenomenon using a clever vapor trail method. The result: increased airflow at lower fan RPMs without sacrificing cooling performance. To maximize airflow, I've designed the air to exit in a circular motion, creating a swirling effect that helps displace hot air from the part and accelerate cooling. The fan is now mounted horizontally above the bulkhead, a decision born out of a harrowing experience with pesky tweezers that sent blades flying. This design also avoids sucking in hot air directly off the heated bed by positioning the fan in cooler air away from the bed. It's a clever solution that makes the most of existing components using science-driven principles. The Mk IV can be printed in two ways: as a single Base-Shroud file or in separate parts for greater flexibility. If you're feeling adventurous, you can print the entire base and shroud as one piece with supports for the mounting bulkhead - just be prepared to deal with noodles instead of a smooth part. One key feature is the small "wing" interface between the shroud and base, which splits airflow and enables printing without supports or crazy bridging. Look for this in the cross-section photos. Speaking of cross-sections, the upper ring piece is colored red to illustrate its inverted wing design and distinguish it from the base assembly. You'll also see my thought process at work in these images. All screw holes are designed undersized to accommodate an M3 tap for cutting threads - a more reliable method than using screws alone. If you have M3 inserts, you can use these holes as pilots to drill proper-sized holes and epoxy them in place. Alternatively, the base and shroud can be printed separately with the shroud split into two parts for easier printing without supports. Just be prepared for some additional finishing and sanding to get everything fitting perfectly. Please note that I'm not making any scientific claims here - just sharing my observations and design decisions based on my own experience. If you have a deeper understanding of fluid dynamics, feel free to leave a comment with more insight!