VeryGrind

thingiverse

Human: Why waste $100 on this jig? Make one yourself! If you're still asking what this is, then it probably isn't for you. But I'll be kind, it's a jig to attach a fingernail grind to a bowl gouge. Please, those who know, don't laugh at my awful gouge - that's what 6 months of free-hand sharpening a gouge will do to it. So, I made this thing. I'd love to show you a picture of it in use, but I'm still building the rest of the sharpening jig. Based on Marius Hornberger's video on his wooden shop-built jig (https://youtu.be/sfmIv0iXjis), I made some minor changes based on the material used, but the parts are directly copied from his plans. I'm using a washer held in place by a nut, in the "wrong" order, to hold the gouge in place. It works fine for my 3/8"(?) gouge, but a larger gouge may require something like a threaded washer, as the nut takes up too much space. Print the arm with solid infill. I printed mine at 25%, and it's a bit flimsy. Usable, but I'd rather have a more solid arm. And since you probably have access to a bandsaw, I recommend making the arm out of 1/4" ply. If you do, just note that the holes are exactly 2" apart on mine. The original (included pdf) was a bit different. How to use: https://youtu.be/j__h45sQErg (Note: in assembled.stl, the nut is shown on top of the block - it actually goes on the bottom. The topassembly.stl file corrects this. I made an assembled file as a mock up to make sure everything lined up.) If you're having issues with sizing: The M6 knob is metric, but every other file is in imperial, inches. The M6 Knob is from a different project and it's close enough to use for a 1/4" bolt, so I didn't think it was necessary to change the units. Import all the other files in imperial. Post-Printing Print: 1 arm, 1 top assembly, 2 adjusters, and 3 knobs. I used the "quarterinchthick" knob in the photo, but they're too big for the jig to lay completely flat - I included some of my 6mm knobs, which should work. After printing, use 1/4" bolts (6mm should work fine too) to assemble the adjusters and arm. The center axle should use a nylon lock nut, tighten it snug, but the arm has to slide. Use two knobs on the other bolt to make the arm adjustable - (use the Assembled.stl for guidance). Drop a hex nut into the opening of the top assembly, glue in place. Make sure the nut is square to the top and bottom faces by pulling down on it with a bolt as you glue. Make sure the top edges of the adjusters are flush and even, tighten down the arm bolts, making sure the arm is out of the way. Using a good glue (Abs glue, Epoxy, CA might work too), glue the adjusters into the 4 slots on the upper assembly - clamp gently if necessary. Place the third knob on a bolt, thread through the glued nut. Place a nut on the bolt as it emerges, and place a washer after that, with the tip of the bolt ending up a bit proud of the washer. This T shape will sit in and on the flute of the gouge - yes, it's a pain trying to not lose the washer, but I didn't have any better hardware available. Print off a copy of the requisite 2" adjusting block (not included) or drill one in a block of wood. Watch the video for proper use of the jig.