Vertical X Carriage (w/ eccentric nut)

Vertical X Carriage (w/ eccentric nut)

prusaprinters

New Vertical X-Carriage with Eccentric NutAre you frustrated with your x carriage always wobbling, no matter how well you adjust it??I present you my new and improved vertical carriage forTevo Tarantula or any 2040 extrusion.Test printed at 100mm/s. It's possible to see the infill trough the wall because I didn't use enough walls. But there is little to no ghost/ringing at all. That was the first time I printed at this speed and achieved this quality.Check also my Y-Carriage!! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3999541List of features and improvements:2 V solid wheelson top to better distribute the weight*Eccentric nut on bottom wheel, allowing fine adjustmentsBLTouch is mounted behind the hot end, this way it remains aligned on X axis and your only concern is the Y axis offset. If you have your sensor mounted on the side, you've realized it's impossible to probe the entire bed, printers usually don't have enough room on X axis, the same is not true for the Y axis.With my design the sensor will be able to probe every millimeter of the bed.Only 3 parts to print. Simple and easy, no supports requiredMinimalist and light weightRequires few hardware and most of them comes with the printerWorks with radial fang mountList of hardware:3 v solid wheels (come with printer)3 M5 x 30mm bolts (come with printer). One bolt must be no longer than 30mm or it will hit the BLTouch (or just print a spacer or use any spacer or washer you have handy), the other 2 might be longer if you want.3 M5 nuts (come with printer)2 nylon spacers (come with printer)2 M4 nuts. You can use the t-nuts2 M4 x 12mm at least. It's OK to use longer, but do not use shorter.M5 Washers for fine alignment might be helpful (come with printer)Printing tips:The endstop bumper doesn't need to be super strong. So, print it as you deem appropriated.Print the belt bracket and the main body as strong as possible. I used 4 walls/top/bottom layers. Use a lot of infill too, in my case 80%.No part needs support, but if you want to add some on the rectangular gap on the BLTouch mount, it won't hurt. Everything depends on how well you can print bridges.Assembling tips:First assemble the bottom wheel, here is the sequence: M5 x 30mm bolt, 2 washers, v solid wheel, eccentric nut, main body, washer (optional) and M5 nut.Second assemble the endstop and BLTouch, if you are using one.Now assemble the rest as you prefer.I assembled everything to the main body, by last I inserted the 2 top wheels, holding the carriage in place and finally the belt bracket.Sequence of the 2 top wheels: M5 x 30mm bolt (or longer), v solid wheels, washer, nylon spacer, main body, M5 nut.BLTouch Sensor OffsetX = 0Y = 28I'm sorry for not posting pictures for better illustrate the assembly process. I was so excited to assemble and test this carriage that I've just forgotten about the pictures.Just let me know if you have any question or some hard time trying to assemble it and I'll do my best to help you. But I believe you'll be fine, this project is pretty straight forward, no secrets! :)If you decide to print it and install, please take pictures and share with me. Let's help the community.UPDATE 12/02/2019*XCARRIAGE_Belt Bracket_v2 = Thicker to increase strength, however I don't know if it's necessary, I printed the first one for my self and it's holding on for now. *XCARRIAGE_Body_v2 = Distance between BLTouch and hotend increased for those using silicone sock on the hotend. If you print the first version, the silicone sock will touch the sensor, and it's better to leave a gap between them to dissipate the heat.=====If you'd like to support me you can post a make, comment and/or pay me a coffee at PayPalCategory: 3D Printer Parts

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