Versatile medium-duty SSR-controlled power outlet enclosure

thingiverse

This is a user-friendly design for an SSR-controlled power outlet box that's easy to print and won't break the bank. It features a switched and fused IEC 60320 inlet, a standard NEMA 5-15 outlet, and a 3.5mm jack for the signal. It uses a budget-friendly 25-amp DIN rail type SSR because they're dirt cheap and abundant. In fact, they're cheaper than smaller SSRs. Don't try to draw 25 amps through this - not even 15 amps is safe. Ten amps might be too much as well. I designed it to plug a 250w ceramic space heater into, so I can use it to heat a 3d printing enclosure with control by Marlin firmware. I put in a 5 amp fuse just in case. It's lightweight and slightly flimsy by design. Some accommodations have been made for less than perfect prints, and some ribs have been added to reduce curling when printing the verticals. I wanted all the business on one side of the case so it can be shoved to the back of the workbench and largely forgotten. Print in the orientations the models are already in. You could use this to control most anything that plugs into a NEMA 5-15 receptacle, within reason, from any on/off control signal you got between 3 and 36vdc. The switched inlet is this type: https://www.amazon.com/B01LYMNQ2L/ You don't have to buy that exact item - tons of people sell the same thing. Note that although the snap-in mounting tabs are cheerfully marked "1.0", they latch onto a 1.25mm panel, which is a bit thin for a printed object. This has been accounted for. My NEMA receptacle is a Cooper piece that I got on ebay and seems to have been manufactured for machine crimping. I'm under the impression that this style of socket is reasonably well standardized, and the dimensional drawings suggest that the Leviton 1374-1 sold by amazon and others will fit perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/B0036ZA94S/ I used this 3.5mm jack: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33002309317.html It mounts in an 8mm hole which I admit is a little weird. You can get them in a hurry as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XG3YTC4/ Or if buying 10 of them for $11 shipped is too rich, Philmore 4330148421 should work too: https://www.amazon.com/B00LXOIVKI/ If you already have a jack you want to use, just ask nicely and I can remix the design for you. Six M3 screws, say 6mm or longer, are needed to close up the case. The SSR is secured by two M4x10 screws. The holes were sized to be hand-tapped but you might be able to self-tap with the screws if you're patient. On printed parts, I tap with the cheezy hex shank combo drill-tap bits, sometimes referred to as "power" taps to be used in a drill, but I only ever use them with a screwdriver handle. I have a set like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K5D3GK1/ You will, of course, need wire, connectors, the SSR, and knowhow. If you need help with the wiring diagram, maybe this project isn't for you. This project involves mains AC electricity which can kill you. Proceed at your own risk. Remember kids, always switch the HOT wire, and keep one hand in your pocket when testing bare high voltage circuits. I have tested this and verified that the fotek ssr can be switched on directly from a pin coming off of my ReARM controller and about 1m of wire, which would be 3.3v from the lpc1768. The LED barely lights but the heater does turn on.