VBD (Very Big Delta)

thingiverse

I designed a massive Very Big Delta (VBD).\r\n\r\nThe original concept was to utilize PETG arms secured to laser cut wood, but I opted for a different approach. Instead, I created a Step file and ordered 1/4 inch thick 6061 aluminum plate from emachine shops.\r\n\r\nI could easily execute a follow-on build (both wider and taller) using C Channel, as I have enclosed a picture of a plate that can accommodate C channel and then 4040 cross members.\r\n\r\nThe printer boasts a usable radius of 380mm, and depending on how you align the part, even more could be achievable.\r\n\r\nThe key feature of this build is the plate. There are approximately thirty 3D printed parts in the build and two laser cut wood plates.\r\n\r\nI am offering two approaches: \r\n1) Utilize a flat plate like the Tevo big delta (I would go wider next time).\r\n2) Employ an angle plate and extrusion, as pictured, where you can go as wide as you would like.\r\n\r\nThanks to Duet, I don't see any issues building big or wide. .5mm tolerances exist in the 5.5mm plate holes, in the curvature of the extrusion, and how the linear rails are mounted, as well as in the flatness of the bed.\r\n\r\nTall can be achieved through cross bracing. In my case, I used carbon fiber tubes to add rigidity. Duet software will absorb any errors (or tolerances) in a build this size.\r\n\r\nSome important observations: \r\n-There isn't a wide variety of very big parts available.\r\n----Either make your own arms or use a stock part like the 400x400mm square bed illustrated.\r\n-Lots of folks are using cheap SSRs; I would suggest going to Digikey to buy a $45 SSR that is UL listed.\r\n-Grounding and fusing - If you buy a printer or make one, ensure it's grounded. Make sure to install in-line fuses where necessary, ground the bed, and avoid using a cheap power supply.\r\n--It's more fun to build a printer than it is to buy one.