Various gadgets for TRONXY X5SA (&Pro)

Various gadgets for TRONXY X5SA (&Pro)

thingiverse

These are miscellaneous parts I printed to customize my Tronxy X5SA Pro and standard printers. The contents are as follows : (1) X5SA_TITAN_DIRECTMOUNT : For X5SA Pro Only - This part works only if you have the titan extruder that comes with the Pro printer. Refer to the photo on how to mount this. You will need 6x M4x8mm and 2x M4x10mm or 12mm bolt and 6x M4 nut. You can get away with using 4 bolts instead of 6 to mount the titan extruder onto this part, but you will need 2 bolts to attach the adapter to the top of your hotend module. I would print at infill of 66% or more to improve stiffness and minimize vibration. Note the entire titan extruder is heavy - I wish that motor was smaller and lighter, but so far it seems to work. Note there is a v2 that is thicker on the mounting plate for the titan extruder (6mm instead of 4mm). Will be stiffer than the normal one, but you will need 10mm or 12mm bolts as 8mm won't be long enough. NOTE :: You also need an extension cable for the extruder - they can be found on amazon. You should get one that's female and male at both ends so you can connect to existing connection and just wrap the bowden tube going to the extruder together with the extension cable. It won't work if you don't have this cable (must be > 1.2m) (2) PICAM mounting system. I found the best placement for a pi camera is in the middle at the top pointing at an angle so you see the bed moving down in your printing video. There are 3 pieces. As the pieces are not moving, infill of 25% is enough. Note I also printed a 2 piece USB extender mount + clamp that needs 2x M2 (8mm) and 2x M4 (8mm) bolts and nuts to secure. The USB extender is a great way to add small USB lights to illuminate the printbed when you switch off the room light. Note the clamp is tight only for certain USB extenders, if your usb extender is small, you may need to add rubber tape to make it fit tight. That way you can still monitor the printing from octoprint at night. (3) GT2 timing belt crimps. There's two. The single one can be used at the end of the part where the manual tells you to use zip ties. This one is better than a zip tie. I also designed a longer piece in case you want to create a loop or join two pieces of shorter belts (note the joint location must not touch the motor or any spindles). When joining two belts, cut a small piece about 15mm and then you can move the crimp to cover both segments with the splice point in middle. I added 2mm holes in middle in case you wish to drill a hole and insert an M2x6mm or 8mm bolt in there to ensure the belt won't come loose. (It really shouldn't, unless your filament is flaky). In all cases, I used PLA+. The direct extruder is the only one where I'm thinking perhaps something more heat tolerant might be better than PLA, but PLA+ works for me.

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