Uzebox emblem without layer lines

prusaprinters

<p>The <a href="http://uzebox.org/index.php">Uzebox</a> is a retro-minimalist homebrew game console, created in 2008 by Alec Bourque. It is based on an AVR 8-bit general purpose microcontroller made by Atmel.</p><p>This is a remix of a portion of the official 3D printed case: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:569226">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:569226</a> also created by Alec Bourque that includes completely custom supports so it can print in an orientation that doesn't show stair-stepping across the gentle curve on the top surface of the logo. See the photo comparison with the silver logo I printed with it oriented flat on the build plate.</p><h3>Recommended Print Settings</h3><p>Use the included .3mf file</p><ul><li>Layer height: 0.1mm</li><li>Perimeters: 3</li><li>Seam position: Rear</li><li>Infill: 0%</li><li>No supports (the supports are already built in)</li><li>Do not rescale*</li></ul><p>I ended up building a custom support/cooling tower for the top and bottom with tiny little 0.1mm tall bridges tacking it to the back plate in various places to keep the thin pieces from wobbling. With enough perimeters on the tower (3 seemed to work) the fan will continuously cool the actual model part, and I was able to get a really clean print!</p><p>* unless you first move the emblem subpart down 0.2mm, and then move it back up 0.2mm after the rescaling. In order for the custom supports to work properly, the emblem needs to be printed in midair 0.2 mm above its supports.</p><h3>Removing the Supports</h3><p>I've printed several of these, and I found the easiest way to remove the supports without breaking the model is to first use a hobby knife and reach in from the sides, and cut all of the thin “toothpick” style supports away from the model. Then I carefully inserted a hobby knife blade in between the bottom of the logo and its custom support, working slowly to avoid breaking it, and then repeated the same with the top support. If you want to, you can also use a fine toothed wood saw to carefully cut the cooling tower away from the top and bottom custom supports before you attempt to remove them, but this is optional and it carries its own set of risks. Work slow, and don't use too much force!</p><p>Once removed, clean up the surfaces with a blade and/or fine grit sandpaper. I worked my way up to 1500 grit, and finally used a melamine “Mr. Clean” eraser to give it a shiny polish. This version turned out looking way nicer than the one I had printed out at Shapeways back before I had a 3D printer.</p><h3>Games I've written for the Uzebox</h3><p>I have written several games for the Uzebox console over the years:</p><ul><li><a href="http://uzebox.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;t=2280">Bugz</a> (2015)</li><li><a href="http://uzebox.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;t=2424">Laser Puzzle</a> (2017)</li><li><a href="http://uzebox.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;t=2427">Laser Puzzle II</a> (2017)</li><li><a href="http://uzebox.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;t=11115">Circuit Puzzle</a> (2020)</li></ul>