USB-C / PD Battery Charger for Flir EXX (E30, E40, E50, E60) thermal camera

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This is a USB-C / Power Delivery charger for the Flir EXX E-Series thermal cameras (E30, E30bx, E40, E40bx, E50, E50bx) and maybe E33/E63 meant to replace a missing ‎T910814 charger. Should work with T198487, T199363, T199363ACC 3.6V 5.2Ah batteries, although I have tested it only with my original T199363 battery and an off-brand battery I got from Amazon.While my charger was originally build around ubiquitous USB-C charger modules, it did not work with PD power supplies, nor monitored the temperature. I came across another project that used Adafruit 259 module:https://0x7d.com/2021/flir-exx-accessories/#more-6341The Adafruit could do temperature monitoring and thus I have decided to redesign around this board. I have used a PD decoy module to feed 5V to the 259 module, getting rid of the obsolete mini-USB connector that came with 259.You would need the following items:2 of 10mm M3 socket head screws.3 of 18-22 AWG spade connectors (a cheap variety).Adafruit 259 module or a comparable MCP73833 clone board - search for MCP73833 charger on AliExpress, e.g.,https://www.adafruit.com/product/259https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804673683249.htmlNOTE: the Adafruit uses a more pleasing set of LEDs (orange, red and yellowish green), while the clone that I've got uses a retina-piercing blue and two equally bright greens. For the reasons that escape me, the same green is used for both 'charging' and 'done', making it impossible to tell the difference between the two. If yours comes like that - you can swap "power" and "charging" to at least tell them apart. You can also replace LED resistors with a higher value to reduce the brightness. I've ended up using a mix of LEDs from both boards to get Yellow for power, Red for charging and Green for Done.A PD decoy module ("100W 5A USB Type-C Decoy PD 2.0 3.0 TO 5V 9V 12V 15V 20V DC Trigger Adapter Module QC4 QC5 Charge Charging Notebook")https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804003562509.htmlhttps://www.amazon.com/Trigger-Adapter-Connection-Charging-Notebook/dp/B0CBTF1HN5/While other modules might work just fine, you might have to redesign the opening in the case.A bit of 22AWG wire.1kΩ smd resistor ('102') to configure the Adafruit module for 1A charging (the cloned modules come stock with 1kΩ).Heat shrink tubing.Assembly:Jump two pads on the PD module to set it up for 5V.Solder black and red wires to the middle holes of the PD module.Plug the PD module and verify it outputs 5V.Prepare 3 wires for the spade connectors - strip them on one end and dip in solder.Crimp the spade connectors - insert the wire, fold one side of the barrel terminal, fold the other side, wick some solder into the terminal using soldering iron, press the terminal with flat pliers to make it as flat as possible, and re-heat it with soldering iron yet again. Our goal here is to make a strong connection while having the terminals as flat as possible, since the spacing between the negative and temperature sense terminals is rather small.Remove 3 plastic connectors from the 259 board - a heat gun works really well for this. Alternatively, you can just snip off the legs of the connectors. Don't worry about pulling the traces - we are not going to use them anyway.Desolder the jumper resistor across the 'THERM' terminals.Verify / replace the 'PROG' resistor with the 1kΩ one.Print the case (prints upside down with supports) and the lid.Insert the PD and the 259 boards in the case. Measure and cut the length of the wires running from PD to the 'DCIN' vias in the 259. Remove the boards and solder the wires in place. PAY ATTENTION TO THE POLARITY! I've got distracted and burned my first board down.Insert the spade terminals into the case. You might want to insert/remove a spare connector a few times with pliers to clean the slots up before inserting the soldered ones. 12. Bend the negative and temperature sensing connectors away from each other.Route the wires to correct vias in the 259 as shown in the photos and cut the wires to length.Remove the connectors and the board and solder to the "BATT" and "THERM" vias. Don't forget to put on some heat shrink tubing, especially around the connectors and where the wires overlap each other.Put everything back in, snap the lid, and screw in the bolts.Make sure you don't pinch any wires.NOTE: The lid is pretty tight. If you ever need to remove it - remove the bolts and then use a metal pick to pry sideways on the walls of the bolt openings.