Upgrade Prusa i3 (Rework) to MK2

thingiverse

I will have some compatible parts lined up here that I have tested or adapted to upgrade the Prusa i3 Rework to Prusa i3 MK2. Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or suggestions! Also, I would love to see your prints - I made one! X and Z-axis x-end-idler_repaired.stl and x-end-motor_repaired.stl Both parts have been repaired using NetFabb 2017.1 since there were errors found in their mesh. For these you will need 2pcs of ACME lead screw, size TR8x2 length 300mm from Aliexpress at around $4/piece. NEMA17 Couplings 5mm to 8mm are also needed from Aliexpress at around $4/pair. You'll need POM nuts. Regular brass TR8x8 nuts will not fit these x-ends, so you can buy a pack of 5 from Aliexpress for around $8. Allows for installing a GT2 Timing Pulley 20T IDLER - 3mm bore, better since these have dual ball bearing and will not pinch the teeth of your belt, less wear. Also looks pro. eBay ~$2.26 bowden-extruder-body.stl or bowden-extruder-body-m12-p.i.n.d.a..stl I do not use direct extruder but a bowden setup. Therefore I chopped off the extruder motor section off of the original extruder-body.stl using NetFabb 2017.1. The original part had some defects that were repaired by NetFabb 2017.1 before making changes. You can use my x-carriage-chopped-top.stl if you will never go direct drive extruder and you upgraded to the MK2 x-ends. This is necessary for the x-end-stop. You can use the original MK2 x-carriage, if you upgraded to the MK2 x-ends. This is necessary for the x-end-stop. By using the original MK2 x-carriage you maintain flexibility, if you ever want to go back to direct drive extrusion (original MK2 design). Original MK2 extruder, cover and carriage in proved zip file. If anyone is interested I will be working on an affordable M18 P.I.N.D.A. version as well. It has up to double the sensing range of the common affordable M12 size. Which has a sensing range of up to 4mm. While the affordable M8 (MK2) does 2mm. When using BuildTak or Lokbuild the M12's 4mm sensing distance is the minimum requirement, since an aluminium bed is harder to detect. Y-axis You have two choices. Either print new MK2 y-corners and buy M8 all-thread/threaded rod and a bunch of nuts and washers to go with it. If you are already going to print the parts, use these that work with your current M10 all-thread/threaded rod. y-belt-guide-10mm-upgrade-rework-to-prusa-mk2.stl Mounting though hole size was enlarged to 11mm to fit M10 threaded rod, with part shrinkage in mind. Originally 9mm to fit 5/16th or M8mm all-thread/threaded rod. Not mandatory to replace from Rework to MK2 version if you want to keep the Y-end-stop at the current location. Or use the MK2 y-belt-holder.stl so that it can hit the y-end-stop at the MK2 y-motor mount. Original MK2 y-belt holder in proved zip file. See picture about endstop situation: TIPS ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit assembly ORDERING PARTS When ordering from Aliexpress or eBay, leave message for the seller to have a better chance of getting better luck with parts you've been waiting for, for weeks. And avoid lengthy disputes. Dear _insert_seller_name_, please check items for defects before shipping. Please check lead screws for 100% straight. Please check build plate surface is 100% flat. Maybe even end fancy if you like: Yours Sincerely, _insert_your_account_name_ Media ME Also, check out my blog, with helpful content and sidebar links. And subscribe to my YouTube where I add cool video's of the parts I printed and parts I designed myself. You can watch back printing the Prusa MK2 X-ends stream for example. PICTURES & ORGINAL STL FILES Resources originally from www.prusaprinters.org and www.prusa3d.com