Updated: WLToys A959/979 Outcast Parts

thingiverse

Hi guys, If Thingiverse is as slow for you as it is for me, consider looking for your 3D parts at Cults 3D: https://cults3d.com/en/users/WrenchToDrive/creations If you're starting from scratch and want to run a poor man's infraction, I'd go with a Tamiya TT-02 chassis over a WLToys. In the end you'll have a better car and maybe even spend less. Stuff adds up on the WLToys unless you just run it as-is. Update: Added a motor mount adapter (lift) for a 28xx brushless running the 979-B gears (big pinion, small spur) and an adjustable 380 motor mount. Also a servo mount for a 22x12.5 (mini, micro?) - I'm using a metal gear cheapo that seems to have enough torque. Mine is stupidly fast running a 2845 motor on 2S. The car isn't good enough for that much speed, frankly. Update: I added the long awaited drive shaft extender for use with the plastic stock driveshaft. I included a tight and loose fitting version for use with the 90mm chassis extender plate in this thing. The tight version may require a bit of rotary tool massaging on the plastic stock drive shaft (Took me 5min) but the fit ends up being really good. Be sure to measure your gap before you print and stretch the part accordingly. The pockets are 12.5mm so it should work fine as long as everything is fitted reasonably well when you do your mods, but , you know, measure twice, print once. This is a chassis extender and body mounts to allow using an Arrma Outcast 4S body with the WLToys A959/979 RC Car. You need to cut the chassis and the drive shaft, so use caution. I used some M3 screws to attach the chassis halves to the extender and added a wood brace across the top to stiffen it up a bit. Despite doing my test runs with PLA, there has been no breakage despite quite a few crashes (One body post sheered off in a head-on, but I think that drilling the holes for clips weakened it). I ran the stock electronics first and then have tried a few brushless setups without any breakage. The fastest has been a 2845 motor using the A959/979-B gearing, but that only got about 50 kph. It doesn't handle too bad and strangely got worse after I added the stiffener. I haven't modded the center drive shaft yet but my plan is to make a 3D printed coupler so I'll post that when I get around to making it. Link to the car running: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERNCA6yfuoQ You'll need to drill holes for body clips or alter the STL files with holes of your choosing. 3D Builder in Windows 10 is pretty easy to figure out if you don't have any other software. You will also need some touring car wheels and tires. I bought a set for less than 10 bucks off Ebay (pictured). Steps: Print parts. Cut chassis/brace/center drive shaft in half (I did it without taking anything apart but if that scares you, use your own judgement). Line up chassis halves and mark extender piece for holes (I test fitted everything using two sided tape). Drill holes 1 size smaller than the screws you're using and assemble. Drill holes for clips in body mounts (or use velcro). Add a brace to the top of the chassis if desired (I used some dollar store wood planks). Jerry Rig your drive shaft if you don't want to run in 2WD. As always, proceed at you own risk. I offer no promises or warranty. Wrench to drive or drive to wrench?