[Update: 2023.09.20] Ender 6 MGN12H 500mm Front Mounted Z-Axis Linear Rail Mount (No Loss in Print Height)

[Update: 2023.09.20] Ender 6 MGN12H 500mm Front Mounted Z-Axis Linear Rail Mount (No Loss in Print Height)

thingiverse

I designed this so the rails mount on the front of the z-axis extrusions. This distributes the weight of the bed to the bearings on both sides of the linear rail blocks, and not just the bearings towards the rear, as happens with side mounted rails. This resolved the serious z banding issues I was having, did a better job keeping the left and right sides of the bed level vs. having the rails on the side, and I didn't lose any print bed height. I was also able to remove the aftermarket shaft coupler I had as a "fix" and use the factory one again. If you want to also update your x and y-axis to linear rails, I have a mounting kit at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5215316. If you are using my R19 cable chain bed frame mount at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5225246, I've added a compatible compact mount to that listing. More Ender 6 models at https://www.thingiverse.com/vampyrex13/collections/my-ender-6-models. Updates ------- • 2023.09.20: Minor visual error corrected. Hardware ------------- Linear Rails (every other hole): • (20) M3x10mm socket cap screws • (20) M3 t-nuts Linear Rail Blocks: • (16) M3x10mm socket cap screws • (16) M3 washers Bed Frame: • (8) M3x12mm socket cap screws • (8) M3 washers • (8) M3 t-nuts Installation Notes ----------------------- • You will need 2 linear rails total. You need clean them so they move smoothly. There are videos and guides on how to do this online. Be careful not to lose any of the ball bearings. • Print out two rail alignment blocks (one for each end) to make sure your rail is sitting straight. • You don't need to use a bolt in every hole for the linear rails. I ended up doing every other hole. • Be sure to lubricate the ball bearings. I used Super Lube synthetic oil with PTFE particles for mine. I applied two drops to the bearings on each side then ran the block back and forth on the rail several times to spead the lubricant. • Unplug the thermistor and bed heater. • The lead screw should be removed first, then you can easily unbolt the v-wheels and v-wheel plates. • Loosely install the mounts onto the bed frame first, then attach the mounts to the linear rail blocks. Remove the crossbar to give you room to access the screws. • Reinstall the crossbar and partially thread in the lead screw. Slowly slide the bed back and forth in the mount until the lead screw drops into place, then tighten the top screws on the mount to secure it to the bed frame. • Reconnect the thermistor and bed heater. • Raise the bed, then tighten the remaining screws underneath. • Secure the lead screw to the coupler, then loosen the 4 screws holding the z-axis motor in place so that it can move back and forth and side to side. Home the bed, lower it all the way down, then tighten the screws. You can reach the screws in the back, but you will need to raise the bed to retighten the ones in the front. Parts ----- Below is my list of parts I used (affiliate links). • 500mm MGN12H Linear Rails with Dual Blocks: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D3B4999/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_glt_fabc_T2RD7HYG3VREQKPA30SA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=vampyrex13-20 • Super Lube: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_glt_fabc_T2RD7HYG3VREQKPA30SA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=vampyrex13-20 Buy Me a Coffee? ---------------- Do you like my work? You can buy me a coffee at https://ko-fi.com/vampyrex13.

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