[Update: 2023.01.20] Ender 3 S1 Pro Raspberry Pi and BigTreeTech PITFT43 LCD Screen Mount
thingiverse
A simple mount to allow using the BigTreeTech PITFT43 LCD screen with a Raspberry Pi board attached on back on an Ender 3 S1 Pro. This mount will block the hard wired NIC port and you will need to flip the screen orientation. More Ender 3 S1 models at https://www.thingiverse.com/vampyrex13/collections/my-ender-3-s1-pro-models. Updates ------- • 2023.01.20: Added an alternate faceplate if you want the ports going out the right side (freeing up the ethernet port). Raspberry Pi Notes ------------------ The below changes are only needed if using the faceplate with the ports on the left as the screen needs to be mounted upside down. • In /boot/config.txt, make sure you comment out (#) dtoverlay=vc4-kms-v3d and add display_rotate=2. • Create the file /etc/udev/rules.d/51-touchscreen.rules with the following line to flip the touchscreen input matrix upside down as well: ACTION=="add", ATTRS{name}=="raspberrypi-ts", ENV{LIBINPUT_CALIBRATION_MATRIX}="-1 0 1 0 -1 1 0 0 1" Hardware -------- Adapter: • (2) M3x12mm socket cap screws • (2) M3x20mm socket cap screws Screen Mounts: • (2) M3 nuts Arms • (2) M3 nuts: Cable Holders: • (2) M3x8mm socket cap screws • (2) M3 nuts 24V Step-Down Converter: • (2) M3x8mm socket cap screws • (2) M3 nuts Versions -------- • There are two versions of the face plates. The ports left version mounts the screen upside down (see Raspberry Pi Notes), blocks the ethernet jack (wifi only), and has the power port on the bottom. The ports right version frees up the ethernet jack and has the power port on top. • There are three versions of the screen mounts. The normal ones should work fine, but I've seen some discrepancies with some screens. If your screen sits too low, use the 1mm Up screen mounts and it it's too high, the 1mm Down screen mounts. Installation Notes ----------------- • Print out (4) board spacers and install them between the Raspberry Pi board and LCD screen. They are thin enough that you can use the supplied 2mm screws for the LCD screen. • You may want to install the SD Card with the OS already loaded before assembling. You can still take it out and put it back in afterwards, but it is tricky. • I used 1/2" split wire loom for my cable holders. • You can power the board directly off the printer's power supply if you use 24V step-down converter. • Unless you're going to modify your USB cable to block the red 5V wire, I recommend using an inline USB power blocker. Parts ----- Below is my list of parts I used (affiliate links). • Raspberry Pi 4: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TD43PDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_glt_fabc_T2RD7HYG3VREQKPA30SA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=vampyrex13-20 • BigTreeTech PITFT43: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09791ZG1B/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_glt_fabc_T2RD7HYG3VREQKPA30SA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=vampyrex13-20 • 24V Step-Down Converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQB6S3L/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_glt_fabc_T2RD7HYG3VREQKPA30SA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=vampyrex13-20 • 22AWG Cable Wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QTCBZ4I/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_glt_fabc_T2RD7HYG3VREQKPA30SA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=vampyrex13-20 • PortaPow USB 5V Blocker: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094FYL9QT/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_glt_fabc_T2RD7HYG3VREQKPA30SA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=vampyrex13-20 Buy Me a Coffee? ---------------- Do you like my work? You can buy me a coffee at https://ko-fi.com/vampyrex13.
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