universal knife block (vase mode)

prusaprinters

<p>I designed a <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/201130-xl-universal-knife-block-vase-mode">very large knife block</a> a while back because I have a lot of knives. It was not very popular and I understand why. Not everyone has an insane amount of knives, because not everyone copes with their depression by buying things. (And something something I'm not popular on the internet so of course none of my models are popular, but shut up, I'm the main character of my own story and I get to pick my reasons!)</p><p>So here is a smaller knife block to hold a much more normal and reasonable amount of knives. And hey, it's spirally! Or.. what is it called? Zig zaggy? Whatever, it's beautiful, go print one!</p><p>I will probably end up gifting this one. I showed it to my friends and they all said they want one… so I guess be warned, you should hide it from your friends. That's the healthy response, right?</p><h3>About</h3><p>This knife block will is 9 inches tall, but I would say the maximum blade length is 8.5 inches. It will hold about 8 to 10 knives comfortably. And you can pick any knives! No pesky sized holes that try to prescribe what kinds of knives you need to have. It's your choice, and I support you.</p><h3>Print settings</h3><p>Both the body and bottom can be printed with mostly the same settings. Here is what I recommend:</p><ul><li>Spiral vase mode / Spiralize outer contour: turn this on, this is how the whole magic works</li><li>Layer height: 0.3mm (<i>feel free to go higher if you can</i>)</li><li>Line width / Extrusion width: 0.7mm</li><li>Wall speed: 30mm/s (<i>you can bump this up a bit if you are confident in your printer</i>)</li><li>Printing temperature: 5 to 10 degrees hotter than your usual temperature</li><li>Flow: 110%</li></ul><h4>Body settings only</h4><ul><li>Bottom thickness / Bottom layers: 0 (<i>that's right, no bottom</i>)</li><li>First layer speed: 20mm/s, maybe even 10mm/s if you have bed adhesion issues</li></ul><p>Print this as oriented in the STL – that is, slots down, at a 45 degree angle. This model should print without a bottom. The lines for the slots should be plenty surface area to give you good bed adhesion. If you are having issues with this, I recommend slowing down the first layer speed, even down to 10mm/s.</p><h4>Bottom settings only</h4><ul><li>Bottom thickness / Bottom layers: 1.2mm or 4 layers at 0.3mm</li></ul><p>The bottom is less demanding… you can almost do anything you'd like. I recommend keeping the settings consistent with the top though, so that they look good together. I recommend printing this in a different color for a bit of contrast.</p><h3>Assembly</h3><p>This part really should be obvious. Just put the body on top of the bottom. It should friction fit and stay put, but just in case, you can put a bit of super glue on there to hold it. I recommend doing that especially if you are going to gift it.</p><h3>Notes</h3><p>The prints in the photos were printed on an Elegoo Neptune 2 with a 0.4mm nozzle in iSanmate rainbow PLA and Overture Matte black PLA.</p>