Universal Hemera Fan Duct for V6 and Volcano (Update 2.2)

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Update (V2.2) =========== I tested various smaller design changes and validated them roughly with CFD, as I'm not an engineer or expert in CFD. A picture of the rough CFD simulation is attached. I made small modifications such as increasing the hole size of the arms/fangs and making them higher on the outside but not inside to hopefully maintain clearance for V6 cables. The air now flows more downwards, whereas the previous version had airflow nearly straight from both sides and upwards when meeting in the middle. This new version needs to be mounted a bit higher than V2 due to this change. Update (V2) ========== I redesigned the arms completely. Now, the air travels much more towards the outside before coming back to the nozzle in a straight line. The old design pushed the air out at a 45-degree angle and was much higher, which caused issues with V6 Heaterblock wiring. The "highClearance" version didn't fully mitigate this problem and had other drawbacks. With the new, flatter arm design, these issues should be resolved. Also, the air now comes out nearly at a 90-degree angle from both sides and meets directly in the middle on the nozzle for maximum part cooling efficiency. It should now perform even better than V1 at overhangs and bridging, which already excelled at cooling the hot filament. However, it is now wider than Hemera, so some printers may need endpoint offsets. Please check carefully before starting your first print! On Ender 5 Plus with Volcano, this cooler doesn't collide with anything. If you have a Volcano, V1 still works fine, but V2 should have slightly better performance. Update (HighClearance Test) ====================== If you're using the normal V6 Hotend, you might want to choose the highClearance version. Its fangs are 8mm more apart, leaving more space for cables. Also, it's 4mm shorter to compensate for the new center of airflow (air comes out pretty much at a 45-degree angle). You should also mount it some millimeters higher. Original Text ========== After making my own Universal Fan Duct for Titan Aero in Onshape, I created an entirely new one for Hemera in Fusion360 using all the knowledge gained from the previous design and its flaws. This FanDuct with its Mount is highly adjustable in height and compatible with V6 and Volcano. One key feature is that it's completely compatible regardless of the Hemera-Mount used as long as the Hemera is oriented for the stepper motor on the right side. However, if you have an Ender 5 (Plus) or other Creality printers, you might want to check out my rail sliding mount for the Hemera. What you need: - Four square nuts inserted into all four holes on the Hemera - Four M3x8mm screws for attaching the FanDuct_Mount Part to the Hemera (DO NOT USE LONGER THAN 8MM SCREWS FOR THIS!) - A 50x15 radial fan; I highly recommend a good one with 6000 RPM from Sunon. Cheap, slower fans significantly decrease cooling efficiency. - Two M4x20mm screws for the fan; 25mm should work too. Printing: - Use a material like PETG for the FanDuct Part because PLA probably won't withstand heat for long! The Fan Duct is not extremely close to the heater block, so PLA will work for at least some time. - I designed it with wall strengths of 1.6mm so that I can print it well with my 0.8mm nozzle. If you have a smaller nozzle, there should be no problem; .4 would be perfect too with double perimeters. - Both Parts don't need support to print, but use as much cooling as your current setup is able to. Installation: - Both Parts are already rotated correctly for optimal printing - Install the Mount - Put the Fan in the Fan Duct and the Screws through it - Important: Position the FanDuct so that the height-clearance between the underside to the nozzle tip is like 5-7 mm. You really want the airflow to go around and down the nozzle. Also, you really want to use the silicone sock because of that. - Also don't worry that it looks like the air slots of the FanDuct are misaligned way before the nozzle. The air will come out at a great angle so that it will hit the nozzle perfectly. - Screw the M4 Screws into the long holes of the Mount (they will tap themselves into the plastic) - Connect the fan correctly - Optional: PID re-tune your Heater