Universal Filament Holder

thingiverse

This spool roller will hold your filament while printing and works with almost all types of filaments and sizes, never requiring adjustment, it is simply ready for use as soon as the spool is placed on the rollers. The design allows for spools larger than 15cm (5.9in) in diameter and less than 10cm (3.9in) wide to be accommodated including but not limited to those from MakerBot, Hatchbox, Inland, DFRobot, NinjaFlex etc. One of the features that make this design unique is a side guide which traps one end of the spool, keeping it in place so it does not slide down on the rollers and preventing accidents. Placing the spool onto the guides is made easier due to the slant inward at the top. Note: A few requests for a wider base have been received in order to accommodate newer, larger 5Kg spools that cannot fit with the original design. This problem has been fixed by adding two new parts; "Roller (Large)" and "Base (Large)", which extend the existing base to hold spools up to 4.5in (115mm) in width. Required Parts Below is a comprehensive list of the necessary parts that are needed for assembly, including direct links to purchase the materials, as well as an estimate cost. * 4x - 608ZZ Ball Bearings - These can be found online or at a local hardware store and cost about $7 * 18x M2.5 x 10 Socket Head Screws This costs about $5 * 4x 1/2 inch Rubber Feet Available at home improvement stores, these rubber feet cost about $3. They can be ordered from Amazon and similar websites. These help to dampen vibrations on the machine that could cause print quality issues or otherwise interfere with the smooth running of the printer * Metric Tap - Required for tapping holes onto guide frames (Brace A and Brace C), costing around $10 * Tap Handle - Another tool needed in case holes require further expansion by screw threading, at a cost of about $6. Step 1: Insert Bearings into Roller. This is quite straightforward. The rollers were made to hold these 608 ZZ ball bearings within the roller itself without any additional adhesive. They fit snugly, therefore just put your body weight on it for a few seconds and then give them an extra little tap if they require further adjustment with the aid of a hammer, gently this time, to keep them flush with the outside edge of the cylinder rollers. This has been deliberately designed that way. Step 2: If you prefer to do so This involves simply drilling the two end screws located on each end of frame guides 'A' and 'C'. All of these can be drilled if you would like them this way - the holes are there just in case, for later adjustments or fine tuning if need be, and then attach your base with these twelve other remaining fasteners that hold this thing firmly to the roller guides once done Step 3: Assembly Firstly assemble both roller frames Braces 'A' & C as described below. These outermost guiding structures require screws attaching to secure each side of them onto its corresponding end frame on top so just push your hand firmly then place two more pieces - those other 6 metal rods onto opposite sides; now take one final tap if any loose fit still remain; afterwards slide over this entire length, aligning correctly ensuring nothing will obstruct access to next section Step 4: Attach the Base First, you should locate where there is an appropriate gap to insert them and make sure they all securely line up perfectly in one piece as previously mentioned earlier - it might be wise at first glance however once fully done place rubber feet down on top for maximum stabilization purposes prior moving forward further!