ULW 10-22 stock

thingiverse

WARNING: I ordered a 10oz barrel, wanted to make this light as possible. If you try to make it light, you may also make it fragile. It could break, you could drop it and have a negligent discharge. Try at your own risk!!There's only 2 parts to glue, no more castle nut, and the fore grip is optional. Should reduce the weight quite a bit.The assembled stock WITHOUT the action screw is 7.1Oz. The foregrip with the hardware in it is 1.2Oz.Remixed files from :ForeGrip:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3832607maxis stock and fore-endshttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2209954https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2222685grip:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4762446carbon tube from amazon:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4N1N42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=thingiverse09-20Carbon tube is 20mm ID, 22mm OD, 420 or so length. Cut to whatever you need.HARDWARE needed:m3x12 (1) countersunk, m3x16 (1) countersunk, m3x25 (1). Rear buttplate assembly.3 m3 locknuts (2 for buttplate, 1 for carbon tube)m3x20 (1) for the grip tang1/4x28 (1) AR Grip screwm3x30mm (1) for carbon tube through rear of stockm3 SQUARE nuts (3): 5.5mm square by 2.4mm thick. 1 for carbon tube, 2 for foregrip.m3x10 (2) screws for foregrip.The edits and remixes may not be pretty but she is LIGHT!I highly recommend petg, NOT pla!If using 2 walls, do NOT use power drivers for any screws that use square nuts. You need to feel by hand when to stop. Over tightening will pull the nut through the 2 walls. If you want this stronger use 3 or 4 walls. It will of course be heavier.Stock and grip: tap the grip threads first thing! A square nut goes in the rear above the grip and holds in the 30mm screw that holds the carbon tube in the stock/receiver. insert the m3x20 into the grip tang. This is like rebar for the plastic, should help strengthen the grip tang. Use 2 part epoxy to glue the rear and front sections together. Clamp and wait 24 hours.Rear stock and buttplate: Cut the carbon to your desired length. Use an m3 drill bit for the holes. Drill under running water due to carbon dust. You may need to sand just the ends (watch the exposed parts if you care about the finish!). It will be a VERY TIGHT fit. You may have to "tap" the carbon in with a mallet. the countersunk screws + 2 locknuts are for the buttplate. The 25mm screw is for the rear buttplate attachment - to go through the carbon held by a locknut on the other side at the bottom. Attach grip and screw in a 1/4x28 AR grip screw. You should already have tapped the grip threads 1/4x28 before gluing together the 2 pieces.ForeGrip: You can skip this and use one of those foam pieces they sell online. PETG should work fine for things like steel challenge where the barrel has a chance to cool off. 2 square nuts go into the inside of the foregrip tightened with 2 m3x10 screws. This is made for a 0.920 bull barrel. Sorry, I don't have any others to try until the 10 oz barrel gets here.In order to make this light, I went with the following (try at your own risk!):Using PETG.Rear_carbon_Direct3 and ButtPlateAssembly : 3 walls, 4 layers top and bottom, 20% infilleverything else: 2 walls, 3 layers top and bottom 20% infillWith the 2 walls and translucent material it really shows off the infill. It may be too thin, if it gets hot or falls on something it will most certainly break. But it is QUITE light.If you want light yet a bit more durable, I would increase to 3 walls and maybe higher infill. 5 layers top and bottom. You will still see the infill but not as much.I have not tested this yet, consider it a WORK-IN-PROGRESS