Ultimaker 2 Enclosure With Air Filter For Perfect ABS Prints

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This enclosure is designed to work in harmony with an activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent equipped with a nanoparticulate filter, surpassing the capabilities of HEPA filters. Place a thermometer inside the build chamber and adjust the amount of activated carbon filtration media to regulate the temperature within the build chamber. The more filtration media used, the less exhaust airflow available, leading to higher temperatures. For ABS prints that resist cracking, warping, or curling, the ideal temperature range inside the build chamber should be 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. A free downloadable design for a 3D printed activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter can be obtained from http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com . Unlike other designs that rely on expensive cartridges costing $40 per month to operate, this innovative design utilizes affordable activated carbon granules and surgical masks at a fraction of the cost, amounting to mere pennies per month of operation. Other enclosure designs often require expensive laser cutters, but this design is entirely 3D printed and eliminates the need for such precision cutting tools. Enjoy! Instructions: 1. Visit your local hardware store and have them cut several 2 mm acrylic panels according to your specifications: Qty 2 x 200 mm x 320 mm for the front and back of the hood, Qty 2 x 200 mm x 328 mm for the sides of the hood, Qty 1 x 320 mm x 328 mm for the top of the hood, and Qty 1 x 316 mm x 320 mm for the removable front window. On the back of the hood's acrylic panel, on the bottom edge, measure 50 mm from the left edge and cut a 40 mm wide x 80 mm tall hole through the panel. Mark four points that are the corners of a square with each side measuring 32 mm. 2. Hold two acrylic panels and a corner fastener together and mark all the points to drill on the acrylic panels in order to match with the corner fasteners. Use a needle nose plier and an adjustable wrench to bolt all the acrylic panels to the corner fasteners, then seal the edges with silicone caulk. 3. Attach panel hangers and panel clips to your Ultimaker. 4. On top of the removable front window panel, mark two points: one 15 mm from the top edge and 15 mm from the left edge, and another 15 mm from the top edge and 15 mm from the right edge. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill through these marks, then screw in two bolts into these holes without allowing them to protrude from the panel. 5. Slip the removable front window panel into the bottom panel clip on your Ultimaker, marking where you would have to drill for it to hang on the two panel hangers attached to your Ultimaker. Use a 5/16 inch drill bit to drill through these marks, then at least 6 mm below these holes, draw a 22 mm diameter circle using a compass and drill many holes along its circumference. HINTS: - If the bolts are too tight, oil them with vegetable oil before screwing them in. - If the panel hangers and panel clips don't fit, soften them with a heat gun and make them fit. - When drilling for the removable front panel window, do not use a bigger drill bit. Instead, insert your 5/16 inch drill bit and wiggle it around while drilling for a minute or two to loosen it enough to fit. Print these pieces in ABS. To prevent cracking, warping, and curling while printing before you've built your enclosure, create a temporary enclosure with plastic wrap and electrical tape. All pieces are printed without supports except for UltimakerCase3.stl. Print UltimakerCase3.stl with supports and remove the support structures with a needle nose plier before use. Update: The hood on top of the Ultimaker was found to be wobbly, so reinforcements were added to the seams between the front and back pieces with the side pieces of the hood. The updated build plate is UM2FullPlateA2.stl. Be sure to glue these reinforcements to the acrylic plates.