Ultifeeder the ultimate extruder feeder for your Ultimaker 2

thingiverse

Everybody's had their shot at creating an extruder feeder for the Ultimaker 2. I've been using a customized version for a while, and now there's even an UM2+ upgrade available. So why another one...? I personally like the Bondtech concept where the filament is captured and driven from both sides. This approach results in less deformation on the filament, which means less friction in the bowden tube and fewer chances of grinding. I also believe it should be a great option for flex filaments, although I haven't tested this myself. One note before you continue: although this is my sixth version with many tweaks, it's still a work in progress. The good thing is that all parts can be printed, and only some cheap eBay gears and MR85 ball bearings are needed to get started, which will cost around €10,-. Still interested? In addition to the printed parts, you'll need: * An embedded bowden tube clamp, available on websites like Aliexpress * Two MK8 drive gears with 3mm teeth, available on eBay * Two 26-tooth drive gears, also available on eBay * Three MR85 ball bearings, found on eBay as well * Six M3 x 20 hex bolts * One 3mm axle for the lever (27mm long) * A 5mm axle for the lever part (32.5mm long) * A 5mm axle for extending the motor axle into the ball bearing (12mm long) * The original UM2 extruder spring * A small piece of bowden tube to fit in the lower opening of the base Print Settings: * Printer Brand: Ultimaker * Printer: Ultimaker 2 * Rafts: No * Supports: Yes * Resolution: 0.1mm * Infill: 100% Notes: I printed the case parts with 30% infill and a 0.1mm layer height, which is fine. The lever and pusher were printed with 100% infill and a 0.1mm layer height. Only the lever needs support to build plate on in Cura, while the rest can be printed without support. I added an internal support to the lever that can easily be removed by placing it on an opening and using a small driver to hit it from the top. The pusher has support as well; if you insert a sharp knife into the side where the gap is, it can be easily removed. Mounting manual: Well, not yet! I made several snapshots of the design that should explain everything.