Tubular TrueX 5inch - o3 toothpick - 3d-printable frame

thingiverse

23.10.23 - Version 2.1 - just an addition: Added motor clamps for 16mm motor mounting, which are more common in racing setups 04.09.23 - Version 2.1 - minor update: fixed the center mount to better fit zip-ties 23.08.23 - Version 2! - The stack with the electronics is separated from the base frame and is clipped on (and secured with zip-ties) - this way you can easily switch frames on a race - middle rods now go all the way to the edges, this strongly increases resistance to impacts! ------------------------------------------ This is the 5" TrueX version of the Tubular frame. Currently only a O3 canopy/mount is available, more on request. I have 3 designs currently available: Deadcat - for long-range WideX - for Freestyle TrueX - for Racing Learn more about all of my tubular designs here on my [website](https://eyeflydesigns.com/). If you plan on building one or would like to get more info, there is a Discord server dedicated to this frame class. You'll get all the support you need there. I'll do what i can to help. https://discord.gg/ZBEmBTNHAc ------ Print instructions: Best printed with a material that's resistant to impact force - I personally have used PA-CF in the past, lately switched to PLA+ though which has been working fine as well. PLA is too brittle and can get weaker in the sun. I added the rod lengths in a separate picture. Make sure to cut them wearing a mask in a well ventilated space (I use a dremel outside, hand saw is better as it creates less carbon dusk - but is more of a hazzle). Will make a video soon about this type of frames. Regarding the rods: I'm using these: https://aliexpress.com/item/4000407024494.html You will need: 1 x 8x7mm 1 x 6x4mm If you get 2 of the 8x7mm ones, you will be able to build 3 frames. I suggest doing so, so you have quick backup :-) I you source them elsewhere: Twilled rods are always better and more robust, but pulltruded ones also work (even cheaper).