TRONXY X5SA - Z ANTI WOBBLE

thingiverse

X5SA - Z Antiwobble / Z Anti Wobble / Z Anti-Wobble README FIRST ... BEFORE PRINTING: Besides the total printing time (quite a while!) you will have to invest some hours in drilling, cutting, filing and adjusting parts (assembling, disassembling and assembling again!) This last part is important, even if it doesn't take as long as I initially thought. The effective printing height after this mod is around 360 mm! So you will lose some 40 mm of your total printing volume along Z. I can live with this minus 10%, since the mayority of my prints hardly exceed 150 mm in height. Do you need an effective printing height of 400mm?? Read the final note. After this mod, you may remove the 8 mm rods and the linear bearings, using them for other purposes. I don't know what XY stepper mounts you are using. But you may need to replace them. These work well https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4932465 And finally the extrusion NEMA and the filament detector need to be reallocated. ===== Well, I’ve been working on this for quite some time now. The more I look at this "monster", the more it reminds me of an old steam engine! Though already tested with good results on the Y gantry of a hot wire foam cutter (only two axes), now time has come to test it on my TRONXY X5SA. The carriages run really smooth up and down along the 2040s (depending on how much you tighten the nuts!!). The structure holding the bed is really firm now, but it has also become heavier, so at this point, the use of a Z-Sync nearly becomes a must! Otherwise, once the printer is turned off, the bed will sink down ... This one will help: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4896393 As said, the bed is heavier now, so my concern at this point is the brass nuts! (Brass is a soft material so this makes me think about the future use of rolled ballscrews together with decoupling devices). - - - LIST: In addition to the already existing structure holding the heated bed, this is needed: - 8 sets of prints - Threaded rods (16 x 105 mms). Diam = 5 mm. 3 x M5 nuts (nut, jam nut and locking nut) per rod and 2 washers inner diam = 5 mm. - 24 x T-nuts. Diam = 4mm. - 24 x M4 - 12 mm screws (hex/imbus) - 24 x washers. Inner diam = 4mm / Outer diam < 9,5 mm - 16 x M5 - 50 mm screws - 16 x M5 locking nuts - 64 x washers. Inner diam = 5 mm / Outer diam = 10 mm. Make sure the POMs spin smoothly - 8 x M4 - 20 mm screws / cone head (25 mm length is even better. Allows the use of washers) ... See pictures 9 to 13. - 8 x M4 locking nuts - 16 x POM wheels. Attention: You may need to sand/file the 'cones' of your MAIN SUPPORTS. Only a little bit depending on the POM's width and/or washer's thickness. - 2 x 2020 aluminium profiles - 400mm (for 330 x 330 mm bed) or even a bit longer, as long as they do not touch the 2040s. ---> You need to drill a 10 mm diameter hole in the center. I assume you don't have a CNC or similar to do this in one run, so start drilling a small hole ( 1mm) from both sides. Increase the drill bits until you managed to drill a clean 10 mm hole. File and clean the aluminium splinters. Read as well the final note. - Use the lead screw guide to center & protect the lead screw. Tip 1: You probably will need to refit the 5 mm holes housing the 105 mm threaded rods in your prints. Do this very slowly (less then 10 rpm). Don't apply pressure to the drill and leave the bit find its way through the print. The less clearance, the better. Tip 2: When cutting the threaded rods, slit the rod's end (2 - 3 mm). This will allow you to use a screwdriver, making your job a lot easier. - - - CENTERING: I assume your leadscrews are not bent and your Z-NEMAS & KFL bearings were well centered before this mod. Preliminary centering with well loosened screws (any screw!!): Use a ruler, take measures and check again the lead screw is centered. The distances from the vertical 2040s to the leadscrews must be constant throughout the course (bottom - half way - top). If not, either the screw is not centered or the frame needs to be adjusted. Once you did so, see ... better 'feel' if leadscrews and brass nuts fit together smoothly. The LEAD SCREW GUIDE helps to ensure this (I printed in ABS and used no screws). Fine/final centering: Grease your leadscrews well (use grease not oil!). Run the bed down & up the whole way few times (at least x5) with still well loosened screws to center both 2020s. REMEMBER now it's only around 360 mm, so since we have no emergency mushroom, always keep a finger on your power switch, just in case! Once done, tighten the screws gently with your fingers, and repeat the procedure. Anything OK so far? Now you can start using a key to tighten your screws. IFs: If the leadscrew bows halfway, then something's not in place. If you stiffened the frame with additional corners, be very careful not to run the POM wheels into them. - - - As you can see, I have rationalised the original design, basically making the parts more compact and lighter (less plastic & shorter screws), keeping their rigidity. So the prints on the pictures do not correspond 1:1 to the STLs you will download from this repository. Nothing you should really worry about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nwsh7uzeo0M I'm really sorry for the lousy video quality!! - - - - - - FINAL NOTE - 400 mm effective printing height (untested as of NOVEMBER 2021) You will need to get 4 new 2040 aluminium profiles (around +40 mm in length - no matter whether it is V Slot or T Slot - 6 mm ) + 2 lead screws (around +40 mm in length). This means: Original 2040 = 530 mm long. Use 2040 with 570 mm instead. You can get 600 mm if you prefer. Remember to thread the new 2040s inner holes to house the screws. Original T8 = 453 mm long. Use a T8 lead screw with 493 mm in length. Gone for a 2040 with 600 mm? Then get a T8 of 523 mm. In my case the T8 was around 77/78 mm shorter than the 2040. ATTENTION: if you use new, longer 2040 T - 6 mm slot profiles, POM wheels will not go into them as much as they would do into a 2040 V, so the distance between the STLs (SUPPORT - COUNTERPART) increases. It's only a few mm, but have this in mind, since you probably need to shorten the 2020 - 400 mm aluminium profiles a little bit. The positive thing of using POMs on 2040 T profiles: carriages move really smooth, as the contact surface is small. You can see how the POM-wheel only "rides the edge". The CON: be very careful when tightening the threaded rods (16 x 105 mms). POM wheels are a lot more delicate than you might think and you don't want to notch them. We all now, what notched POMs do ... Anyway ... before ordering, take exact measurements! TRONXY's manuals can be found here: https://www.tronxyonline.com/Product-Manual-a12015.html Enjoy ;) O. TRONXY X5SA - Z ANTIWOBBLE TRONXY X5SA - Z ANTI-WOBBLE TRONXY X5SA - Z ANTI WOBBLE TRONXY X5SA - ANTI Z WOBBLE TRONXY X5SA - ANTI-Z-WOBBLE