Tronxy X5SA Linear Rail Conversion

thingiverse

This is my homemade linear conversion setup specifically designed for the Tronxy X5SA, utilizing as many original parts as possible to save money and design time. Key Features: - Counter-sunk holes ensure a clean flush look. - The motor brackets feature an integrated belt tensioner. Using an M6 screw, you can tighten it to stretch the belt. Lock the screw in place with a jam nut, then secure the 4 top screws. The brackets also have ribs for added stiffness. The carriage adapter bolts on and reuses the same long screws from the carriage wheels. Note: Some grinding and drilling is required on your original parts! - The Gantry Beam end plate requires you to mark and drill 4x holes to mount it to the linear rail bearing blocks. A PDF sketch showing the bolt pattern dimensions has been uploaded. Use calipers to accurately measure and mark the holes. I recommend using a center punch to ensure the drill bit doesn't wander as you drill. - The Gantry Beam needs to have its ends shaved 1mm shorter on each end. Use any tool you like, but be careful not to get too close to the outer holes. Shave off a little at a time and test fit until it fits between the Left and Right linear rail bearing blocks. Everything was designed to be printed solid/100% infill for strength. Do not hollow the prints. You can reuse the idler wheel spacers but will need to shave them down for the idlers in the idler tower. They need to be trimmed down to approximately 5mm long. New Hardware Needed: I reused as much of the original hardware as possible, but purchased all new hardware from McMaster-Carr just in case. The part numbers are mostly from McMaster-Carr. Use them as references if you choose to buy elsewhere. I recommend buying as much as possible from them. Your local hardware store should also have most of these parts, except for T-Nuts. - 4x M3x10 counter-sunk screws for the carriage adapter (McMaster #92125A130) Parts Required: - 8x M3x5 button socket screws for the Gantry end plates (McMaster #92095A177) - 8x M4x10 button socket screws to attach the Idler towers to the frame (McMaster #92095A190) - 8x M4x12 button socket screws to attach the motor bracket to the frame (McMaster #92095A192) - 16x M4 T-Nuts to attach the Idler towers and motor brackets to the frame (Amazon) - 3 MGN Linear Rails. I recommend Hiwil, but generic Amazon will work. My build volume is 330x330, so I purchased 450mm rails and cut one hole spacing off. These will work great without cutting them if yours is a 400x400. - 1x Roll of 6mm Belt (Amazon) - 8x 5mm bore/6mm Belt Idler Pulleys (Im not sure if you can reuse the new 2019 Tronxy idlers) Special Notes: - The Idler towers are tricky to bolt on into the frame. You need to take one screw off and install it after tightening three of the screws. Sneak in the fourth T-Nut from the sides. - The motor mounts are also a bit tricky to install. One of the T-Nuts sits next to the screw from the top frame beam (mock up the bracket, and you will see). Insert the T-Nut first, then put the bracket over it. Also, do not bolt on the motor before the bracket is fully secured to the frame. - Make sure you put a washer in between the idlers in the tower. A lock washer works great; just unbend it so it's flat. - You will need to make and print your own end stops. Home the printer manually by triggering the switch with your finger when it gets near them. This should work just to get your printer to home this one time to print the end stops.