Tronxy X3 NO CONTROLLER BOX!

thingiverse

I've been wanting to get rid of the external controller box on my Tronxy printers since I built the first one, and now that I have four X3A printers, it's time to take action. The controller box takes up too much room and moving the printers with it attached is not fun either - no reset button access and the power switch is difficult to reach if you place the controller under the printer, let alone the SD card. The graphic of the whole design needs updating once I get everything completed. One thing that's changed is the power supply (both the 20 or the 30A) has moved to the outside of the frame due to interference from the Z axis stepper mounting bracket. The Melzi controller box now hangs lower so that separate mounting brackets could be eliminated, and the cable box (if used) will need to move to the back of the printer. The Melzi controller is so long! The controller case takes up most of the right side of the printer, which is why I designed this project in the first place. My goal was to be able to re-use as much of the controller box parts as possible. When I designed the Ultimate Tronxy Cooler, I replaced the 40mm stock hot end cooling fan with a 30mm and two 25mm filament cooling fans and re-purposed the 40mm fan to cool the Melzi board. The 40mm fan is now mounted to the Melzi box top. You have a choice of a plain top or the Alabama 'A' top (ROLL TIDE!). I printed the Melzi box tops in clear PLA so that the LEDs can shine through. I also used a piece of red 3mm filament as the RESET button extension (1.75mm will work too). What I did was set the filament on the heat bed (70°C) and let it stay while printing. After about 30 minutes, the filament will be perfectly straight. I then flattened one end of the filament with a hot soldering iron (~150°C works well), which is the end that will touch the reset button. I placed the piece of filament in the top from the inside and then placed the top in position on the Melzi box and pushed the filament until it was touching the reset button but was not pressing on it. I then cut off the filament, leaving about 4mm extending beyond the top surface. Next, I used my soldering iron to flatten that end of the filament. Now the reset extension is captive to the top and simply floats until you push it to reset the controller. FINALLY, access to the reset button! The kit will consist of the following: 1. 100mm Legs: DONE! 2. 20 amp AND 30 amp power supply mounts with integrated power switch: DONE! 3. Display controller mount (works with the monorail Y axis and linear bearing mod): DONE! 4. Cable box: This is optional to hide all of the extra length wiring that is not needed. 5. Power supply mounts: The power supply has been moved to the outside of the left side of the frame, which does not extend past the X axis motor so very little if any desk top room is lost. All of the PCBs attach with "servo" self-threading screws as well as the box tops. Attachment to the frame is with 4x10mm screws and 4mm "boat" nuts. Design is DONE! All parts have been printed at least twice for checking fitment. Completed pictures coming soon (printers are busy printing another project). This has been a fun but challenging project. Silver printer is done, well almost.....I ran out of wire for the filament cooling fans (more is on the way) but I wanted to show what the finished project looks like. Next will be the black printer and then the red one and then the yellow one will be last. Here are some other designs I have done for the X3: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2650465 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2061064