Tronxy P802 2020 Extrusion Frame Upgrade

thingiverse

I designed my own printer using 2020 extrusion and I was impressed with the outcome so I created this upgrade for my Tronxy P802Ma to bring it up to the same spec as my own design. For those interested, the parts used in the conversion are listed below: The purchased parts were: 1x BigTreeTech SKR1.1 32bit board (optional) 1x BigTreeTech TFT24 Screen (optional) 4x 400mm 2020 Aluminium Extrusion 3x 260mm 2020 Aluminium Extrusion I purchased from Ooznest in the UK as they cut to order - https://ooznest.co.uk/product-category/parts/mechanical-parts/v-slot-extrusions/ I used black anodised as I like the look but the choice is yours. 6x 90 degree cast corner pieces - https://ooznest.co.uk/product/90-degree-cast-corner/ 4x NEMA17 Vibration Dampers - https://ooznest.co.uk/product/stepper-motor-damper/ 2x 90 Degree Joining Plate - https://ooznest.co.uk/product/90-degree-joining-plate/ 2x 608 Bearings (fitted at the top of the Z axis lead screw) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EPNN62M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_4C9ZEbAZXN95S And a selection of 12x M5x8mm bolts, 43x M5x10mm Bolts, 5x M5x25mm Bolts, 5x M5 Nuts, 43 M5 T-slot hammer head nuts. I purchased bulk on the M5x10mm bolts as it worked out much cheaper so actually had a bag of 100 to use. I did the same with the T-slot nuts too. When assembling the frame, build the bottom first on a known flat surface to avoid twist. Have the 260mm lengths on the INSIDE of the 400mm ends to ensure the width is correct. Loose fit the corner brackets and nip up the bolts then adjust until it is fully level on the flat surface and tighten each corner fully (DON'T GO TOO MAD THOUGH - YOU'LL RUIN THE FRAME!). There are several key components that need to be installed in a specific order: 1. The Y axis rods: Insert these through the mounts and tighten the 25mm M5 bolt to hold them securely in place. 2. The Y belt clamp: This is shaped for my particular carriage but feel free to modify it to suit your own setup. 3. The Y end stop mount: This fits directly in front of the Y axis motor and I've had no problems using this setup but double check your bed's bearing housing actuates the microswitch before powering everything up. You'll need to thread the holes for the microswitch first either with an M3 tap or using a screw to make the thread for you. Attach the mount to the frame first, then screw the microswitch to the frame afterwards. The angle mounts can be used to mount the PSU and control board case. If you are not using the SKR1.1 board then you will need to come up with a method of mounting your existing board to the frame. Cable management is dependent on how your existing machine is set up, but the angle brackets can be used to cable tie the wiring looms into position if required. The spool holder is again optional but I used a length of M8 threaded bar with a dome nut on each end as the axle slotted into the top of the holder. You may have to adjust your Y home offset to make sure the positions are accurate as on the old frame depending on how your bed is triggering the end stop but that's a simple change in the firmware configuration. I also use a BLTouch for my Z levelling/end stop so there's no provision in the build for a Z stop switch but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to design one. Using this setup, I haven't lost any of the Z height (mine is 210mm due to running a MK10 extruder setup) but be careful and check yours 1mm at a time to confirm nothing will foul at the top of the gantry!