TronXY Crux 1 Bi-Metal Heatbreak Fan Setup w/BL-Touch Mount

thingiverse

This is a remix of:Fan Mount: https://www.printables.com/model/523356-tronxy-crux-1-fanductBL-Touch Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5790611This setup is used with the shortened heatbreak and hotend that result form upgrading the Crux 1 from PTFE tube to a BI-Metal Heat break. Parts used in the hotend upgrade:Blower Fan upgrade (stock is 0.05a, replacements are 0.10a; twice the performance): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DB7DLMMHotend Fan Upgrade (same reason as blower fan): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0757RPCN9Bi-Metal Heat break (TC4, 27.5mm): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6P6P83S60W Heater & 300C Thermister: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9CV86N7Solid Copper High Temp Heat Block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NVTJM4SCapricorn PTFE tube (because why not, you still need some): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GM6W972M3 Screw Set: https://www.amazon.com/VIGRUE-570PCS-Stainless-Assortment-Machine/dp/B08H24W42KCapture Nut Assortment: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2HGNYLXThe M3 capture nut gets inserted into the hold in the arm to secure the bottom corner of the hotend cooler fan. I like to screw on the screw to the capture nut, then heat it using a heat gun (hold screw with pliers), then insert into the hole. This prevents the gunk buildup that occurs when doing the install using soldering iron. Let cool and remove screw.(or sod all of that and just string a twist/zip/cable tie through the hole and be done with it)Parts used in the BL-Touch Upgrade for a Klipper unit (I do not know/use Marlin for this):M3 Screw Set from Fan UpgradeOfficial BL-Touch Unit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093788GPBThe modificationto the mount here is adjusted to have the bottom rest on the fan mount and sized so the sensor should end up 1mm above the nozzle and a 1-2mm below when deployed. I also increased the size and thickness of the sensor mounting area to remove any play from motion and better hold the sensor vertical. I modified only the first fan mount since having a no-fingers-in-the-fan grill was still desirable to me.This one is a bit more of a pain in the rear, since you have to figure out where to connect the wires, as well as build cable extensions to get from the extrude to the board.Thankfully, New Crux1's that are shipping out have a very clearly marked board for the connections for power for the sensor (both 24V and 5V available for the bl-touch or the tronxy sensor) and you will reuse the Z-stop for the sensor bit.The difficulties are:The power connections and PWM connections have no pins soldered to the board. You will need to fix this yourself.Finding the PWM pin name to input into Klipper. The doc for this chip, the way the chip is oriented in the document does not match the easiest way you will look at this chip when opening the underside of the printer. With the printer having the front of the y axis face down on the table, this puts the board and chip in your lower right work area. the chip in this config is turned 90 degrees TO THE LEFT of what you see orientation wise in the chip document. PITA! Once oriented you can see the control pin is PB10 with a multi meter.TL;DR The PWM pin is PB10Klipper BLTouch Section:[bltouch]sensor_pin: ^PC13control_pin: PB10probe_with_touch_mode: True