Tripple & Double Fillament Filter Pipe cleaner extruder upgrade for Prusa Mini and for PTFE extensions PC4-M8 [REMIX]

prusaprinters

I liked this model, so i remixed it double and tripple stacked for my purposes. My setup is a three stage filter process:Cotton for first dust wipeClosed cell sponge/foam material for small dust and cotton dust if there is anyFillament oiler/addative adder As seen in the video by CNCKitchen depending on the materials you print with, and the oil/addative you use you can get better layer adhesion, or add properties to your print. Note that this is a case by case issue, which differs per material, brand, temperature, setup, you name it. So unless you are willing to tinker A LOT i dont reccomend the third filter and i would add either a rolled up piece of microfiber cloth or the cloth commonly used to wipe off glasses. These are super thin threads that catch all manner of smal ldebree.You can of course mix and match filter materials in different orders. As i replace the first filter every week the seccond every month and the third every 3 months. Use it as you see fit.Implementation is done the same way as the original, where you can download the cap clamps or rotary lock. Note that for the rotary lock or “filamentfilter_20220507hs-Partrolle.stl” your printer has to be quite dimentionally accurate when printing since the fit is tight. You can always print one out to test and later on increase the scale by 1-5% for example for more clearance.Settings:Support - NO, however if your setup has issues with larger overhangs ( most likely due to uneven or too little parts cooling ) enable it but you might have to use a skewer for example or long drill bit to clear out the opening. I printed both with and without and i didnt have to post process it as the support was hollow and the fillament passed with no issue. But it might vary with your setup/layer height and support settings.Material - Any rigid material, i personally use ABS/ASA for most parts. ASA more for its UV resistance when i take the printer outside.Print speed- SLOW, 50mm/s i use for detailed and fine details such as the hollow spherical patern for the twist lock. Slower is better.Bed adhesion - Brim reccomended as it can become a tall part.Cooling - Material depending, If you use PETG, PLA for example they like a lot of cooling so basically crank your fans to 100% and let her rip. ABS, HATES any large temp swings so no cooling there. You might have to play with your speeds for the fine details with e.g. minimum layer cooling time. And use Cura's post processing G-code function to change the speeds at the twist lock spheres for example. On the endcaps i personally glue in some 8mm outer 6mm inner diameter PTFE tube so it slips into my fillament dry box passtrough. And on the bottom i slip a regular Bowden tube inside of that 8mm PTFE. You can however like the original use Couplers this is what it was made for after all. Just want to say, this is one of the more elegant solutions ( i just love how it looks in two  different material colors. ) So thanks to internetmitmensch for creating this! ON a side note!, on a serperate machine ( since the mess this creates) I use one of these right above my hotend to impregnate lubricant into printed nylon bearings. Nylon is a great bearing material, and with this added it self lubricates even more. I dont reccomend using this on your main machine as it leaves lubricant everywere! After printing it i bore out the inner diameter and ream the outer using a metal dye so that its dimentionally accurate.