Tracked Inspection Bot (TPU)

thingiverse

Great Micro Go anywhere tank with tilting FPV camera. I'm excited to share the files with you, and as time goes on, I'll be adding more options for customization. This is a TPU/TPE (Semi Flex) print material only design, so please use the correct settings in your 3D printer. To avoid unnecessary support material, turn it off for all parts. When printing the tracks, give them a bit of stretching to soften them up. They should fit with a snug fit above the wheels. The drive wheels are cogged and will move the tracks along smoothly. Battery Bay Dimensions Are: 32mm wide 10mm tall 65mm long The design is flexible and can accommodate larger battery sections due to its TPU material. This makes it perfect for using different types of batteries. Parts List: 2x HexTronik MG14 Digital Metal Gear Servos (check the modding information below) 1x Turnigy D56LV Digital Metal Gear Servo 1x Eachine TX03 3-in-1 FPV Camera 1x 3amp Micro UBEC 2-cell battery pack (Recommend: Tattu 650mah for easy 4 hours of drive time) A receiver (Recommend X6R, S6R, X4R or smaller) - X6R and S6R allow for voltage telemetry Screws Needed: 2x 20mm M3 screws (front riding wheels) 2x 18mm M3 screws (from battery compartment to the bottom middle) (button cap recommended) 1x 8mm M3 screw (rear) (button cap recommended) 1x 12mm M3 screw (front side opposite of servo output) 1x 14mm M3 screw (front center to RX bay) 2x 3m lock nuts (inside lower body ride wheel axles) 7x 3m nuts 1x 5mm M2 screw (front servo camera mount) All screws with the exception of the 20mm screws, should be a lower profile button cap design. Modding the MG14 Servo for Continuous Rotation: - Remove the 4 screws and lift off the bottom housing. - Slide some extra servo wire through to make things easier. - Pushing firmly on the bottom of the motor, release the gear train section from the metal case. Be careful not to separate the gear train section. - You will now see the square-cased potentiometer next to the motor. Release it from the drive axle. It is secured with a little bit of adhesive. - Once the potentiometer is free connect the servo to a servo center tool or a paired receiver with a channel outputting 1500u. - Now rotate the center of the potentiometer until the servo stops rotating. It may be a little difficult to find center. If you are not exact after the mod, don't worry, you can trim it out with the radio. - Now glue the potentiometer so it cannot rotate and fold the pins against the potentiometer and cover with a thin bit of shrink wrap. - Now carefully fit everything back inside of the servo casing with the servo lead exiting out the opposite side of the servo output shaft. The bottom cap may have a small circular spacer depending on the generation. You can remove that piece with a set of needle-nose pliers to give yourself more room. I would also like to thank the Facebook Group (Tiny Trak - Micro FPV Crawler) Community for their support and helpful comments. They got me hooked on these little crawlers, and I'm grateful for their help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRERZqmnnxM